That’s the age-old question, isn’t it? When choosing a CCW, this is a good place to start.
Carrying a gun chambered in .45 ACP will be larger than one chambered in .380. That’s just how it is and there is no way around it.
Read on and by then end you’ll have a good understanding of the best caliber for you…
EMP Alien Gear Holster
Plus our favorite concealed carry handguns for it! And our favorite holsters and ammo too.
Crossbreed Holsters with G17, G19, G26
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Variables to Consider
The size of your piece matters.
Aliengear Cloak Tuck 3.0 with XD Mod 2
If you decide to go with a larger caliber or a double stacked magazine, your gun will be physically larger. If you have a thinner or smaller body or like to wear tighter clothing…the fact you’re carrying a gun will be VERY obvious.
Concealment Express G19 AIWB, Front
Even more so when you’re sitting if you have it at 4 or 5 o’clock.
Seated with Aliengear, XD Mod 2
Clothing
For those of us in the Midwest, we have, what seems like, 16 months of winter where we wear big jackets and sweatshirts. This allows us to carry just about any caliber CCW we want.
Jacket with Holster and Any Gun
But, when summer rolls around, that changes. Carrying a full-size .45 ACP is more difficult to conceal in shorts and a t-shirt.
Take a look at your style and your seasons to find a good compromise. Possibly owning a gun for winter carry and another one for warmer months. Think of it as a seasonal accessory if it helps you justify the purchase.
Choosing the Caliber
There are a few ways to choose the caliber of your CCW. First is to ask around. My guess is you’ll get a lot of people replying that their carry gun is a 9mm or a .45 ACP. These are probably the most common.
Another way is to follow what law enforcement, military, and government agencies use. They tend to do a lot of research into what the bare minimum yet effective caliber or weapons are out there.
The .380 looks like the 9mm’s younger sibling
What you will see with a lot of these groups is that they went back to 9mm.
147gr 9mm Federal HST Expansion
This is because the 9mm has come a long way in the last few years.
The .40 S&W was the go-to for a long time, but not really anymore. Something I noticed in my time building police vehicles was the rural departments, and many times sheriffs in rural areas carry .45 ACP.
While a .22LR can deter an attacker, it is not really recommended for concealed carry. If this is your only option, then go for it. Something is better than nothing But, if you are going to purchase something to carry every day, go with a larger caliber.
.22lr revolvers like this one are often a great choice for disabled folks looking to defend themselves. Find more recommendations in our article for Disabled Shooters!
If you are in a state that has colder weather, a .22LR will have some difficulties penetrating thicker or multiple layers of clothing.
What is likely to happen if you were to use a .22LR and be forced to use it against an attacker wearing a thicker jacket (Carhartt or similar), is the bullet may pierce the jacket and clothing but could struggle to do the appropriate amount of damage needed to disable the attacker.
Below are a couple of choices for each caliber to help get your search started.
I know everyone has their favorites and there will be comments about this gun or that gun should be on or off the list. Feel free to interject, but leave useful comments and suggestions.
9mm
The 9mm CCW category is packed with a lot of good choices. Also, keep in mind that most of the manufacturers make a .40 S&W and a 9mm in the same size frame so I am only listing the 9mm models here.
It’s smaller than a lot of compact guns but bigger than a subcompact. And it’s thin too. About 1” thick. The Shield and Shield 2.0 also come in a variety of calibers, too such as the Shield .380 Auto and Shield .45 ACP
I would compare it to a Glock 26 in size, but it holds 10+1 and is a single stack magazine. This keeps the width to an inch. It also has a rail if you want to add a light or other attachment.
While there have been some production issues of the P365 and some “voluntary” recalls, Sig Sauer seems to have ironed out the issues now.
Another PPT writer reviewed the Sig P365 not long ago and wrote a glowing review on it.
Something to note before you get your boxers in a bunch is I left out 1911s because this is an article about concealed carry. We have our Best 1911s article for that.
Yes, you can carry a big gun if you want, but most want a smaller gun for their EDC.
It’s thin and easy to conceal, a combination that isn’t easy to find in a real larger caliber.
Because of the shorter barrel and the larger caliber, it kicks and can make reacquiring your target more difficult when firing quickly. You’ll probably need to train a little more with that than you would with a 9mm.
But extra training should be assumed when you’re working with .45 ACP.
The FN FNX-45 is a bigger gun compared to some of the others listed so far. It is a compact size, so the barrel is a bit longer. If you are looking for something for your large hands, this would be a good option.
Using one of each for your different needs makes it easier to transition between the two and makes training much simpler.
.380
A .380 is a very concealable weapon. They are usually thinner and smaller than a 9mm subcompact. You will lose some of the impact you get when a .380 hits the target, but they are still acceptable for self-defense.
You’ll want to read up on the differences and limitations of the .380 Auto, and we have Just the Article for You.
Same bullet, smaller casing.
Something you might want to look into right away if you are getting a .380 is a new trigger. Most of them have a long pull and can make them hard to shoot accurately under duress.
The Ruger LCP II is a popular small gun and a large improvement over the older LCP model. It comes in different colors so finding the one you like aesthetically is easy.
The Glock 42 is a great choice if you are looking for a reliable single stack .380 or if you are Glock fan and want something a little smaller than their other offerings.
A .38 Special or .38 special +P are very common calibers for revolvers and don’t really show up in semi-auto pistols. When it comes to a revolver for CCW, lightweight and hammerless are two of the characteristics I recommend looking into.
S&W revolvers come in almost every shape, finish, size, and option you can think of. This one is super lightweight since it uses a one-piece aluminum frame and a very short barrel.
It’s handy, easy to use, and rated for +P. Everything you could want in a CCW revolver.
It has an exposed hammer, so you’ll want to practice your draw to make sure you can do it well and not snag clothing. It’s also able to fire +P rounds for a little more punch.
If the exposed hammer is an issue for you though, Ruger also makes the LCR that uses an internal hammer for smoother draws.
In this list, there are some popular models of various calibers to get you started in your search. Some are subcompact, some are not. In the .38 Special category, they are all revolvers and in the .45 ACP category, there are bigger guns.
Take a look at your lifestyle. This will have a big impact on what and when you will carry. Look for a CCW that will be convenient and comfortable to carry or you just won’t.
Comfort comes from how it fits your hand as well as how it feels carrying it on your person.
Just because you aren’t strapping a pair of 1911s in shoulder holsters every time you leave your man cave doesn’t mean you aren’t going to be safe. Get a 9mm or .380 that fits your hand and you can conceal in the majority of the clothing wear daily.
Lots of Holsters, Boondock Saints
And as a reminder if you scan articles like I do: Everyone has their favorites and there will be comments about this gun or that gun should be on or off the list. Feel free to interject, but leave useful comments and suggestions.
We have some more specific articles too if you already know what you want:
We love to hear from our readers about their CCW choices, so let us know! What handgun do you use? What caliber? Tell us all about it in the comments! And then head to our CCW Definitive Guide.
In 2017, Colt announced the return of the snake guns and many fans drooled.
A few folks simply shrugged.
If you weren’t around during the time when Colt was selling their popular line of revolvers, it might be hard to understand.
From the 1950s forward, the snake guns (Viper, Anaconda, Python, Diamondback, Cobra, King Cobra, Boa) have continued to grow in value—some have sold for tens of thousands of dollars. Capitalizing on the height of this popularity, Colt started working its way back through the line.
Rick Grimes Colt Python, This Helped
The latest is the King Cobra, unveiled at SHOT Show 2019 though the question remains—did Colt drop the hammer on a winner with this revamp, or is it a misfire? Read on to learn more!
The Colt King Cobra is a small package ready to spit venom!
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What are the Snake Guns?
Essentially, they are a fairly wide variety of Colt, double-action, revolvers that came in different configurations. Imagine a series of revolvers that were offered in many different calibers, finishes, and barrel lengths. The universal appeal was broad.
Hunters could find one to suit their purposes, but so could a cop looking for a duty weapon, or someone else seeking a concealed carry piece.
Although they’ve been around since the 1950s, the value of these guns started to slither up in the last ten years. I recently spotted a Colt Python at a local dealer that was labeled for $3,000.00. Some more rare models go for crazy amounts of coin.
There are a number of explanations for this phenomenon, but let’s take a look at the most recent offering from Colt.
Rick Grimes of the Walking Dead brought peace to zombies and fools alike with his Colt Python.
The Colt King Cobra
The original Cobras came in .38, Special, .32 S&W or 22 Long Rifle, though the “King” designation goes to the gun that can handle the mighty .357 round. The modern version is no different.
If you weren’t aware from glancing at it, there are clues that tell you this gun was built for the hefty cartridge such as the more robust frame, shrouded ejector rod, and especially the beefy, over-molded, Hogue grip.
The King Cobra currently comes in a brushed stainless finish with a black grip. It holds six rounds of .38 or .357 as you wish. It has a brass bead front sight that appears to be housed in polymer. The rear sight is a traditional square-cut from the frame.
Badging is minimal and tastefully done. The barrel length is 3 inches, and the revolver weighed in at a hefty 28.1 ounces on my scale.
I’ve got to admit, just holding a Colt, seeing that raging pony on the side, stirs up a lot of feelings. This is a piece of Americana. Samuel Colt started making guns in the 1830s and the Colt company was founded in 1855.
There is some cool history and symbology going on with Colt’s standard.
Function and controls are slightly different depending on your knowledge of revolvers. The Colt cylinder rotates to the right, or clockwise.
While this might not seem like a big deal, many revolver manufacturers adopted the other direction and if you’re loading your last round for a critical shot, you’ll want to know where to put it!
Also, the cylinder release button is not a push forward like many other models. You actually pull it toward the backstrap.
Range Testing
Out to the range over a couple of testings, I fed the King Cobra a steady diet of mixed .38 ammo.
This stuff was a veritable menagerie of older rounds that had seen better days. It consisted of different weights, some +P, and different brands such as Federal, Winchester, Speer, and only the God of War knows what else.
Some tired, old, .38 finally got set free through the Colt.
On the hot end (.357) I went with American Eagle 158 grain high velocity, and some older Federal .357 I had sitting in the loops on my western gun rig. Yep, that’s right, a western gun rig.
I had always heard you should not let your ammo sit in such a belt for a long time because it could somehow sour, Colt was going to help me test that theory.
.357 is not like the 9mm you’re used to.
I started out with the .38 ammo, simply grabbed six rounds, fed them into the cylinder, then closed it up ready to fire. One of the things a lot of people used to semi-auto pistols may not realize is how long a double-action trigger can be.
Considering you’re cocking the hammer and rotating the cylinder with the first part of the pull, then releasing the hammer with the latter, you’re getting a lot done.
During that time though, it’s easy to get off target. Focusing on the brass bead sight, I worked on keeping steady.
On the left I shot the .357 high on average, on the right, the .38 was more tame.
The first six rounds were just fine. I then opened the cylinder and utilized the ejector rod to push out the empty casings. I had noticed this ammo repeatedly swelled the casings after firing, causing the casings to be a little more stubborn to leave.
The King Cobra handled them easily as long as I combined gravity and a thorough plunge on the ejector rod. My shots all grouped pretty well when shooting from ten yards.
The ejector rod was nice and solid.
Another experience many semi-auto fans may not know about is the sheer force of the .357. As I recall, this round had the record in the Bureau of Justice Statistics for the most single-shot stops—meaning, one shot from this round ended the fight.
I loaded these with some trepidation, fully knowing what I was in for.
The sights were pretty easy to use.
I tightened my grip just a bit and began the looooong pull toward setting off the American Eagle .357.
The King Cobra leaped in my hand but was not difficult to control. It was at this point I really began to appreciate the Hogue grip. The rubbery finish and finger grooves actually helped me hang on to the revolver with my large hands. I found myself still needing to adjust grip between shots though.
Man, .357 is no joke!
By the Numbers
Stepping back down to the .38 ammo felt like shooting a .22 after the big boys. I shot several boxes worth of the .38 and a few of the .357 while working on grouping and accuracy.
With the .38 ammo, I was able to get decent accuracy though I found myself a couple of inches high, consistently, with the .357. Oh yeah, and those Federal rounds that have been sitting in my cowboy action gun belt? Every single one of them went bang!
The double-action trigger pull averaged to 8 pounds 10 ounces on the Lyman Digital and was very smooth the whole way through. Single-action, cocking the hammer first, came in at a crisp 3 pounds.
Reliability 5/5
During testing, I had zero failures to fire or eject (opening cylinder, using ejector rod). Many people tout the reliability of the revolver and I cannot dispute this.
There are occasions when the platform can have issues but if mechanically sound, this gun will flat out work. The only issue I had was not letting the trigger fully return (likely a hold-over from trigger reset with semi-autos).
This caused a minor issue but was easily resolved by letting the trigger return home and starting the press again.
The King Cobra chewed up a Rogue’s Gallery of random ammunition.
Ergonomics 4/5
The Hogue grip on the Colt King Cobra makes handling the recoil of a .357 a lot more manageable. It is a great blend of tacky without being sticky (grabbing your shirt for instance). Your actual hand placement when firing the gun may need some adjustment as those used to stacking their thumbs near the slide will find a rotating cylinder there.
Accuracy 3/5
This is a gun with a 3-inch barrel. I stretched out some distance but kept things close for the most part. It did well and placed the shots pretty cleanly where I held. One major difference is the ability to switch from double-action to single. This made for improved groups due to the shorter trigger press.
Customization 1/5
I’m really not sure how much customization you could muster for this revolver. More importantly, I’m not sure you should customize this gun. If your approach to this wheel gun is that of the collector then you’re better off buying it as is and leaving it that way.
Value 4/5
Well, beauty is certainly in the eye of the beholder. I think this Colt represents a value that may not be readily apparent to many shooters—that of the investment.
Sure, a fundamental understanding of economics says the Colt snake guns decrease in value when you flood the market with more product, but no one knew they would skyrocket in value decades later when they first started making them.
All those poor souls who didn’t invest in a Colt snake gun.
Overall 4/5
This is a great revolver. And as long as you understand that statement, you’ll get the value of this gun.
There is a reason why John Wick only shoots a revolver once in Parabellum–there are better tactical choices. That being said, there are plenty of used semi-autos still collecting dust in gun stores across the country while the value continues to climb on the snake guns.
I’m not going to argue the merits of a six-shot revolver. The King Cobra is not a gun I would recommend for many tactical situations when there exists, evolved technology that has greater benefits. However, there are a couple of angles that make this gun an absolute keeper.
It’s a Colt snake gun, and if the trends hold, it will only appreciate in value.
While it may not be the most optimal tactical solution, six shots of .357 scares the hell out of me.
Bonus: What if Colt made a Cobra that was a Commander (ala 1911 fame) model?
Cobra Commander? Anyone?
So, what are your thoughts on the new Colt King Cobras? Have you shot any of the other classic Colt snake guns? We want to know about it, so tell us in the comments. Feed the beast with the Best .38 Special and .357 Magnum ammo!
One of the most daunting things when I first started looking for a gun was…what size bullet to get?
Common Bullet Sizes
We’ll be covering purely bullet size…and the benefits/weaknesses of each. Now, there’s A LOT of sizes out there but I want to cover the ones you’re most likely to see and/or use. These are the ones that you can walk into just about any sporting goods store and buy.
Then we’ll follow up with some bullet terminology and the different types of bullet tips (hollow point, etc), how shotgun shell sizes work, and a breakdown of the components of a round. By the end, you’ll be a bullet pro!
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Bullet Size & Caliber
First!
For guns, “caliber” means the diameter of the barrel and thus the diameter of the bullet that is going through it. Also for terminology sake, “bullet” just means the metal projectile, while the entire thing is called a cartridge.
Parts of a Bullet Cartridge
We’re going to cover a lot in this article, including:
The first differentiator is between rimfire and centerfire cartridges.
The rimfire’s primer is built into the rim while the centerfire cartridge has the primer in the center. Rimfires are extremely cheap (few cents each) and the .22LR is the most popular rimfire caliber. For even more differences, see our article on rimfire ammoor familiarize yourself with how guns work.
Centerfire vs Rimfire Primer
Rimfire vs Centerfire
Common Bullet Calibers
There’s A LOT of bullet calibers, but you might not run into more than a handful in your lifetime. We’ll be going over 18 calibers in total I have on hand, but let’s start with the top 11 most common sizes (in my opinion) first.
Common Bullet Sizes
Overview of More Common Bullet Calibers
To make things a little more confusing, there’s a mixture of measurements in inches and millimeters. There’s also a unit of weight called a “grain” which is used to denote the weight of bullets. A “grain” is really small since 7000 grains make up one pound.
When you talk about bullets at this high of a level, the most high-level trait is “Stopping Power”.
This is a relatively vague trait and somewhat controversial. What it boils down to is how many bullets does it take to drop a person. Granted, if you hit someone in the right spot it only ever takes one but in most situations, you’re aiming for center mass (a.k.a. the chest, a.k.a. the largest target available).
Some bullets have enough power or other traits that will cause damage to organs even if you don’t hit them directly. You might also hear about a term called “Hydrostatic Shock” but that’s an entire article unto itself.
Now let’s go through some!
More Common Bullet Calibers
.22LR
The “twenty-two” long-rifle is the most common caliber in terms of units sold.
It has a bullet weight of around 30-40 grains and is extremely mild shooting in both pistols and rifles. The recoil is almost non-existent which makes it a great starter round for someone who has never shot a gun or is uncomfortable with the noise.
The low price of the bullets is also great for learning sight pictures. It is traditionally the starting caliber for shooters. These things are only a few steps up from a pellet gun round.
They can kill, don’t get me wrong, but they’re mostly for killing rats, snakes, and birds. They’ll kill an attacker for sure but it might take a shot or six.
I have extremely fond memories of earning my Rifle Shooting merit badge with a .22LR. Many popular handguns and rifles have .22 versions or adapters that let you practice on the platform but use the inexpensive .22LR ammo.
Slightly larger than the .22 and slightly more powerful….though not much.
The ACP stands for “Automatic Colt Pistol.” There are quite a few guns that use this size but the ammo is more expensive and you’re not getting too much-added benefit other than the inherent reliability that comes with centerfire casings.
Slightly more stopping power than the .22 but it’s kind of like the difference between stabbing someone with an ice pick or a knitting needle.
Both do the job, but one will leave an ever so slightly larger hole. It’s a tiny round and I’ve yet to use a .25 caliber gun that didn’t work like crap. I’ve used a few flawless .22’s, however. I don’t know why that is.
.380 ACP
Now we’re getting into the beefy sizes.
Personally, I would never use a gun with anything smaller than a .380 as my primary carry weapon.
Sometimes called a “9mm Short”, it has seen a major boost in popularity recently thanks to the various “pocket pistols” that have come on the market. This is also a very controversial round. If you ever want to troll a gun forum, just go there and ask “which is better: a .380 or a 9mm?” or “Does a .380 have enough stopping power to use it as a carry?” Watch the arguments start.
It’s entertaining.
This bullet has relatively low recoil and, at close range, good penetration.
They’re a great carry weapon size, in my noobish opinion. Gun author Massad Ayoob once said of the .380 “Some experts will say it’s barely adequate, and others will say it’s barely inadequate”. This is a low power round. Because of the nature of the bullet and the guns that shoot it, it’s going to be relatively useless beyond close-ish range.
This pistol round is officially known as the “9x19mm Parabellum” or “9mm Luger” to distinguish it from other 9mm rounds, but you will be fine just saying “nine millimeter” or “nine mil” for those in the know.
My personal favorite and if there was a “Goldilocks” round, this would be it.
The very first gun I bought was a 9mm. They’re fun at the range. They’re good for defense.
Believe it or not…or actually believe it because it’s true…the 9mm bullet is the same diameter as the bullet used in the .380 and the .38 Special. The difference between the three is the amount of gunpowder behind it and possibly bullet weight.
It is the standard round for NATO countries and the majority of police forces around the world. It is mild shooting, can vary in weight from 115-147 grains, and has varying stopping power based on the type of bullet (hint, go with hollow points).
Ballistics Gel Testing
The rounds are inexpensive and they have very low recoil. Many, many guns use this size as well. A compact 9mm gun can be used for concealed carry. Most of the guns that use this size can hold on average 15-17 rounds in the magazine.
Remember how I said the 9mm was the “Goldilocks Round”? If that’s the case then the .40 is her big, angry, whiskey drinking sister.
Originally designed for the FBI as a reduced 10mm cartridge and popular with other law enforcement agencies ever since. More kick when compared to the other popular handgun cartridge, the 9mm. Weights of the bullet can vary from 155 to 165 and 180 gr.
Note that the FBI recently decided to move back to the 9mm since agents are able to shoot more quickly and more accurately with 9mm compared to the .40 S&W.
Designed in 1904 by Mr. John Browning himself for the famous 1911 pistol, this round has one heck of a history.
This thing is a big bullet with stopping power to spare.
The choice of many police officers and military personnel for years, the .45 caliber round has proven itself time and time again. I could probably do an entire article on just this bullet.
It has a large bullet of around 230 grains and has moderate recoil. I can tell you from personal experience that this is not a round to hand to someone who’s never fired a gun before. Its stopping power is renowned and has a nostalgic following.
The “thirty-eight special” is most commonly found in revolvers.
It has manageable recoil but is still quite a handful when in a very light/small revolver. It has a longer cartridge and more powder in said cartridge but it is a slower, heavier bullet than the 9mm. The FBI used this cartridge as its standard issue for a very long time.
The .357 Magnum is identical to the round except for being slightly longer. You can safely fire a .38 Special in a .357 Magnum gun, but don’t try the other way around due to size and pressure constraints. Bullet weights vary from 110 to 132 to 158 gr.
The “two-two-three” (inch) Remington has almost the exact dimensions as the “five-five-six” (mm) NATO cartridge.
The 5.56 has higher pressures than the .223, so .223 rounds can be fired in a 5.56 rifle, while 5.56 rounds should not be fired in a .223 rifle. Bullets are around 55 grains and the cartridge has light recoil.
It is the ammunition used in the M16/M4/AR-15 line of rifles and there’s still endless debate on its effectiveness in combat.
However for civilian shooters who get the benefit of hollow point ammunition…it is strongly recommended for home defense.
20 gauge is a smaller round while 10 gauge is a much larger round.
Recoil can vary from moderate to high based on round.
Shotgun ammunition is the most versatile with birdshot (lots of smaller metal balls), buckshot (fewer much larger metal balls), and slugs (1 oz piece of solid metal).
Here is a pump-action shotgun with birdshot…
And now with buckshot…
Stopping power is renowned with buckshot and slugs (even more recoil) but there’s a price to be paid!
Not really common for civilians, but I just had to have it in here. It’s huge and has huge recoil with awesome range (confirmed kills at 2000m+), and you definitely don’t want to be on the receiving end of the bullet. 660 grains of pure stopping power.
Common Bullet Types & Terminology
Still with me?
I’ll go over rarer types of calibers at the end of the article since I really want you to learn about the common bullet types first.
Full Metal Jacket (FMJ)
This is the most common type of bullet and consists of a soft metal core, such as lead fully encapsulated by a harder metal, such as copper. They are usually pointy, round, or even flat. Wound channels are typically small and go through a target.
Great for the range but not preferred for defensive rounds.
Hollow Point (HP)
Hollow points are made to expand once they hit something. They are the go-to round for police officers, concealed weapon carriers, and home defense guns because of their stopping power.
Below you can see the difference between a round nose 9mm FMJ and a hollowpoint:
9mm 115 gr Federal FMJ vs 124 gr Federal Hydrashok, Top
Open Tip (OTM)
Open-tip bullets look like hollow points since they have an opening at the top, but this is more because of their manufacturing process. The openings are too small to expand effectively.
Regular FMJ’s are created from small copper cups where the bottom of the cup becomes the tip of the bullet. Open-tip bullets are the opposite, with the bottom of the cup becoming the bottom of the bullet.
7.62×39 FMJ vs Open Tip, Top
Open-tip bullets are sometimes also known as Open Tip Match (OTM) since they are preferred by long-distance shooters. The manufacturing process for open tip bullets creates a more consistent round than FMJ. Important when you’re shooting hundreds of yards!
To make things more confusing, several manufacturers such as Sierra still call their open tip rounds “hollow point.” If it is important to you, it is best to check online or call.
Ballistic Tip
This is what you get when you combine the aerodynamics of an FMJ with the stopping power of a hollow point. This is a hollow point covered with plastic to mimic the profile of an FMJ. They are usually used in hunting.
Below you’ll see that the bottoms of the bullets are more streamlined. This design is called “boat tail” and produces less drag as the bullet flies through the air. HPBT is short for “hollow point boat tail.”
7.62 208 gr Ballistic Tip vs 175 HPBT
5.56 FMJ vs Open Tip vs Ballistic Tip, Side
Soft Point
This is an earlier attempt to get the ballistic advantages of an FMJ with better expansion.
In soft point bullets, part of the lead is exposed at the tip. The softer lead is designed to flatten better when the bullet hits a target. But for the most part, ballistic tips have surpassed the performance of soft points.
Note that the left and right bullets are boat tail while the middle one is not.
Soft Point Bullets
Bird Shot
We’re back to shotgun rounds.
Shot Size Chart, Shotgunworld
Birdshot consists of the top row and is pretty small pellets numbering in the dozens in each shell. Here’s a 7.5 shot shell with a clear hull.
12 ga Birdshot
Great for hunting birds and blasting clay pigeons, but not the best for home defense.
Buck Shot
The overall best home defense round is buckshot. 00 (“double-aught”) is the go-to load.
00 Buckshot, Paracles Tech
Slugs
Slugs are single projectiles that are around 1 oz of solid metal that really bring the hurt. However, they don’t have the spread of birdshot or buckshot. But, in the hands of a solid shooter, they can be accurate up to 100 yards.
12ga Slug
Components of Common Cartridges
What makes up a cartridge?
If you get into shooting, you’ll see the costs can really add up. That is when you get into reloading your own ammo. Here are just a couple breakdowns of the calibers I currently reload. You can see the difference in powders & bullets for each type.
Components of 124 9mm FMJ
Components of 55 gr 5.56 FMJ
Components of 175 gr 308 HPBT
Less Common Bullet Calibers
Let’s quickly go over the remaining 8 calibers I have on hand:
Common Bullet Sizes
10mm
If you remember, the .40 S&W is just a cut down version of the 10mm which is pretty tough to handle and not something I want to be shooting all day at the range.
Which is just the reason the FBI downgraded from the 10mm to the .40 S&W (and now to the 9mm). Great stopping power and harsh recoil.
Made by FN for their P90 personal defense weapon (PDW) and Five-Seven (get it?) pistol. The small bullet (23-31 gr) travels very fast and allows for increased penetration with low recoil and high magazine capacity.
The history of this little guy is interesting if you’re into that kind of thing. This is a round born of the Cold War when Western European nations were worried about the Soviets invading, specifically worried about paratroopers wearing body armor.
The design of the P90 and the 5.7 go hand-in-hand, the goal of each being to equip rear echelon troops with a weapon that was easy to handle, easy to transport, and still effective Vs. regular troops wearing body armor.
Although the Soviets never invaded, the P90 and the 5.7 have proven themselves to be very effective in that role. However, if you’re not facing attackers wearing body armor – there are better options.
A beefed up .38 Special almost exclusively for revolvers. Great reputation for stopping power but at the cost of some decent recoil. Bullets vary from 125 to 158 to 180 gr.
More oomph than the .38 but still manageable with a 4″ barrel and good grip.
Light rifle round designed for the M1 Carbine that was introduced in the 1940s. Used in service even up to the Korean war, the round and rifle still have a popular following in the civilian world. The standard bullet is 110 gr.
.300 Blackout
Designed to give the ballistic performance of the larger .30 caliber AK 7.62x39mm round but designed for the AR-15 and using standard magazines at normal capacity. Thus, the case is a shortened 5.56 case to fit reliably. Getting more popular as it is a great round for suppressed shooting out of short barrels. Bullet weight ranges from 110-220 grain.
Designed by the Russians for their Mosin-Nagant, and then used in more than a dozen guns ranging from rifles to LMGs, and still in use today in the Dragunov and other sniper rifles, which makes it the oldest cartridge still in combat use. Slightly more recoil than a .308 Winchester. Bullet weight is around 140-200 gr.
.30-06 Springfield
The “thirty-aught-six” is one of the US’s oldest cartridges, introduced in 1906 and the primary military ammo for almost 50 years. Strong recoil, and with it range, but tolerable by most shooters which makes it still beloved by many shooters around the world. Bullet weight is around 150-180 gr.
Not only is being cold just the worst, but hypothermia is also very dangerous and a lot easier to succumb to than many people realize.
Proper cold weather gear keeps the cold at bay, but for long periods outside in very cold weather, it can feel like you’re stuck going with bulky and uncomfortable layers.
Sure, they keep you warm, but they’re annoying when you’re trying to work or enjoy yourself.
That’s what makes heated cold-weather gear like hats, jackets, gloves, and socks so awesome. Instead of just providing insulation to keep the heat that your body produces from escaping, these items have heat sources of their own to supplement that heat.
Hand Warmers, mittens, and liner gloves help keep your fingers working
If you’re new to heated cold-weather gear, jackets are a great place to start since maintaining your core body temperature is especially important.
Since they produce their own heat, heated jackets don’t need to be as bulky as most winter coats which make them more comfortable and makes them ideal for layering under more insulated coats if necessary.
How to Choose a Heated Jacket
There are relatively few hard and fast rules for what to look for in a heated jacket since exactly what you want from your heated jacket depends heavily on what you need and want.
However, there are some things that you should consider before choosing your heated jacket.
Budget
Heated jackets can be pretty expensive compared to most everyday wear, but then again, so can pretty much any winter coat. And like with regular winter coats, a good heated jacket can least you for years.
A lot of us experience this when we walk by the ammo section of our local sporting goods store.
The jackets on this list run between about $150 and $300, with an average around $200.
There are more expensive jackets out there and if you live in an area with very cold winters and spend hours and hours outside every day in the winter, one of those may be worth it for the extra bells and whistles, while people who only anticipate needing their heated jacket a handful of times each year probably don’t need to spend that much.
Before buying, think about how much you can and are willing to spend on a heated jacket to avoid sticker shock or being taken in by a fancy jacket that’s more than you need.
In addition, you can usually save money by buying in the spring and summer when this type of gear gets marked down.
Plus, by starting your search early, you can keep an eye out for sales. We can help with that with our Daily Deals page!
Heating
There are two types of heated jackets: chemically heated and electrically heated.
You know those little handwarmer pockets that you expose to air and shake to heat up? Chemically heated jackets have pockets for you to place larger versions of those, like HotHands Body Warmers, in.
The problem with this is that heat isn’t evenly distributed, so the areas of your body near the heat packets can easily feel like they’re in the midst of hell, causing you to sweat, while several inches away you may barely feel the heat if at all, then chill as the sweat evaporates.
They also only have one heat setting, which is typically scalding.
On the other hand, these heat packs will last you for up to 18 hours and require no power source. Still, I prefer electrically heated jackets.
They have battery-powered electrical heating elements, which spread heat more evenly across the body. The area that each heating element warms is referred to as the heating zone.
Heated clothing thermal picture, very cool
Most heated jackets have at least three heating zones: one on each side of the chest and around the middle of the back. Additional zones may be around the hand pockets, in the collar, or over the additional surface area on the back.
Electrical heating elements also offer more control over the intensity of the heat, with most offering at least three levels and many offering pre-heat options as well.
All of the heated jackets that I recommend are electrical.
Battery
Ideally, you want the jacket’s battery life to extend beyond the amount of time you plan on wearing it, but that’s not always feasible.
In those cases, having a spare battery or two will help you keep the jacket working for as long as you need it to. When possible, I’ve linked to where you can buy additional batteries for the recommendations below.
Not these batteries, these are too small.
Some jackets, like the first one on this list, from DeWalt, use the same battery as power tools from the same manufacturer, so you may already have a battery or two that you can use.
All off the jackets I’ve linked to here are sold in kits, meaning that they come with a battery and charger, but many of them are also available without them so you don’t have to buy another battery if you don’t need it.
Batteries like these!
Battery life is heavily dependent on the heat setting used. You can get your battery to last longer by turning off or turning down the heat at regular intervals until you notice the heat starting to fade.
Also remember that when you’re active you don’t need the heat set as high, so turn it down or off once you’ve gotten warmed up.
Material
The material that any jacket, heated or not, is made out of plays a big role in how effective it is in keeping the wearer warm.
Generally, the outer layer of a heated jacket is made of polyester, nylon, Gore-Tex, or another similar technical fabric. The inner layer is a soft lining, typically fleece.
Gore-Tex
What’s most important is that the outer layer keeps the cold air, wind, and water out, but is still breathable so it doesn’t trap sweat. Aside from being gross, trapped sweat cools you down.
The inner layer should wick moisture. Between the liner and any additional insulation, there should be plenty of insulation to keep heat inside of the jacket.
Style & Fit
Since heated jackets are a primarily functional garment, aesthetics aren’t very important, but there are some stylistic features worth taking a look at.
Fit is the most important.
Your heated jacket should fit close to the body and close snugly around the cuffs, waist, and collar. This minimizes escaping heat and means that there’s less air between your body and the jacket that has to be warmed.
Most heated jackets, even supposedly unisex ones, are cut for men unless otherwise indicated, but women are much better off with one cut for a women’s body since it minimizes that excess air.
Three of the four jackets on this list are available in cuts for both men and women. While the fourth is only available for men, the same manufacturer offers a similar style cut for women.
In addition, to fit, there are a few other considerations.
If you plan on wearing your heated jacket underneath another layer, you’ll want to go with one with less insulation and a more sleek, lightweight design.
Virtually all heated jackets have, at minimum, two hand pockets, plus a battery pocket, though most have a chest pocket as well. If you have work or recreational equipment that you need to be able to store, you may want a jacket with additional storage.
Other features to consider include a hood, removable sleeves, and reflectors.
This jacket is made for the same audience and is even compatible with most of the same batteries.
With wind and water-resistant cotton twill shell and a soft fleece liner, it’s designed to be functional, comfortable, and durable enough for long daily shifts of hard manual labor.
The LED controller allows you to choose between three heat levels with a preheat function.
The DeWalt 20V MAX Lithium-Ion Soft Shell Heated Jacket has four heating zones, one on each side of the chest, one on the collar, and one on the mid-back. The adjustable waistline and cuffs prevent heat from escaping.
With the included 20V MAX* compact 1.5Ah battery, the jacket has up to seven hours of battery life on the low setting and a just 30 minute charge time. Extra batteries compact batteries available in singleand double packs.
However, this jacket is compatible with the entire DeWalt 12V/20V battery system, so you can use a larger battery for longer battery life. The battery pocket, found on the left side of the jacket behind the hand pocket, expands to fit 20V Max XR batteries, also available in singleand double packs.
In addition to the jacket and compact battery, this kit also comes with a fast charger and a USB power source that measures battery charge and allows you to charge portable electronics from your jacket battery (an additional battery is needed if you want to charge at the same time you use your jacket).
The Bosch 12V Max Heated Jacket has three heat settings and begins warming in seconds. It has three heat zones, one on each side of the chest and another on the back.
A polyester shell is water and wind-resistant, yet breathable, and the lining is soft fleece.
Like with the DeWalt jacket, you can use the Bosch 12V Max Heated Jacket with the same batteries that you use for any other Bosch 12V Max products that you already own.
The jacket comes with a 2.0 Ah battery that provides up to six hours of heat on the lowest setting, but you can buy Bosch 12V Max 2.0 Ah, Bosch 12V Max 3.0 Ah, and Bosch 12V Max 6.0 Ah batteries separately. The 6.0 Ah may push the boundaries of comfort, however, in the jacket’s interior waist battery pocket.
The included charger can be used with any Bosch 12V Max battery. So that’s cool.
This jacket also comes with a USB compatible BHB120 Battery Holster/Controller that you can use to charge your portable electronics at the same time you use your jacket.
This one is only available for men, but the Milwaukee Heated AXIS Jacket is similar and available for both men and women.
Anyway, back to the Toughshell Jacket.
This jacket’s defining feature is its Toughshell outer shell. It’s made out of flexible, DWR coated polyester with FreeFlex Mobility Gussets for comfort and a five times longer lifespan.
The liner is made from brushed tricot and between the liner and shell is additional high loft insulation. It has adjustable cuffs and a waist with a drop tail extended back to help keep warm air in and cold air out.
In addition to the battery pocket, the jacket has three outer zip pockets and one inner zip pocket.
This jacket is both washer and dryer safe, so it’s easy to keep clean, even if you wear it in messy conditions.
The Milwaukee Heated Toughshell jacket has three quick-warming heat zones: chest, back, and hands. It has three heat levels and the chest and back zones can be set independently from the hands zone.
It has up to eight hours of battery life with the included M12 REDLITHIUM CP2.0 Battery. However, it can also be powered by Milwaukee’s other M12 REDLITHIUM batteries, just like any Milwaukee M12 tools.
This jacket is the most budget-friendly option on this list and probably the most comfortable as well.
It’s wind and water-resistant with a flexible, breathable polyester shell and an ultra-soft and cozy fleece liner. It has a tailored design to fit close to the body, minimizing excess air pockets. It has three heat elements, one on each side of the chest and another on the mid-back.
Ororo doesn’t produce power tools for fun battery mixing and matching, but they make up for it in other conveniences.
For one, this heated jacket is totally machine washable. Most heated jackets have to be spot cleaned, what with having electrical components and all, but with this one all you have to do is disconnect and remove the battery then replace the connector and you’re good to go.
Speaking of the battery, you get a whopping 10 hours of battery life on the lowest of the three heat settings (you get six hours on medium and two on high), though you can still get additional batteries if you need or want them.
The jacket is also very lightweight and packable compared to other heated jackets, making it great for travel or just stowing in your bag when you’re not using it.
With that said, there are other excellent heated jackets that are also available and you should now have the know-how to find them too, so if none of the jackets on this list are quite what you want, don’t resign yourself.
Keep looking until you find one that really fits your needs and wants. Then let us know which one it was!
Now that you know how to choose a heated jacket and know of a few of the best, which one did you go with? Need some more heated clothing? Take a look at the Best Heated Gloves!
Disclaimer: While the information provided here is legal in nature, it is not to be construed as legal advice, and is for educational and entertainment purposes
With the increased news coverage of gun-related crimes and mass-shootings in the last few years, some politicians have unfortunately decided to capitalize on the situation to try and enact new firearms laws.
While these laws are often presented as “common-sense gun control”, which few people are actually against, to the law-abiding gun owners, the actual language of many of these laws doesn’t seem to make much sense at all.
The more blatant attempts to erode gun rights, such as blanket bans on AR-15 rifles, get the most coverage in the news, and (thankfully) have a tough time getting passed into law. Some of the lesser-known laws, however, such as “red flag” laws, are getting through, and fans of the 2nd Amendment everywhere should be just as concerned.
So what exactly is a red flag law? A red flag law officially goes by many different names, from an “Extreme Risk Protection Order”, or just “Risk Protection Order”, to “Risk Warrant”, or “Gun Violence Restraining Order”, and, our personal favorite, “Proceeding for the Seizure and Retention of a Firearm”.
All of the fancy naming conventions aside, a red flag law is essentially a law that allows someone to report a person if they think that person might be a danger to himself or others.
As a result of the report, that person will have to turn in all firearms and will be prohibited from further interaction with firearms until he can prove he is in fact not a danger to himself or others.
Of course, if the person chooses not to turn in their firearms voluntarily, the law allows for the confiscation of the firearms. For the public good, of course.
On the surface, this seems like a reasonable type of law to have. But that’s how they get you! Like most “common-sense gun control” laws, when you dig down deeper into the details, it becomes less “common sense” and more “gun control”.
Stating the Rules
Since there is no national red flag law currently, all of these laws are being enacted at the state level. Because of this, the exact reporting requirements and enforcement procedures vary from state to state.
In some states, the initial reporting of an individual has to be made by law enforcement officers, while others allow anyone to report an individual suspected of being a danger to himself or others.
It’s not difficult to see how this could be abused by an anti-gun activist trying to have guns confiscated from law-abiding gun owners, or even just someone reporting their neighbor over an argument.
Once the initial report is made, the individual is prohibited from interacting with firearms and deprived of his firearms for anywhere from a day to a few weeks, with some laws allowing for an extension of the time period for up to a full year.
All of this taken together is a recipe for a gun-grabbing disaster.
Yellow flag laws sound more reasonable
Where Did They Come From?
While it may seem like these laws are springing up in many states all of a sudden, red flag laws are a relatively recent phenomenon.
The first red flag law was passed back in 1999 in Connecticut in response to a shooting at the state Lottery headquarters.
Connecticut State Flag
After that, other states began to gradually adopt their own versions, often in response to shootings, as part of efforts to show the government was addressing what they viewed as a firearms issue.
Fast forward to 2019, and there are now 17 states with red flag laws on the books, with other states trying to get their own versions passed as well.
Before we get any smart alecs chiming in down at the comments section, yes, D.C. is technically not a state, but they dislike the 2nd Amendment just as much as any anti-2A state in the country.
How Did We Get Here?
While most of the list reads like a who’s who of anti-2A states, including perennial favorites such as California and New Jersey, some of the more typically 2A-friendly states like Florida are also on there. No one is safe!
It shouldn’t be a surprise that states like California have added red flag laws to the books to complement their other gun control laws, but states like Florida have often been considered relatively free states, with “shall-issue” concealed carry licenses.
So what’s the deal?
Laws like red flag laws attempt to appeal to the “common sense” aspect of gun control, and understandably, when tragic incidents such as the school shooting in Parkland, FL occur, people expect something to be done to protect us and our families, and to make sure these incidents can never happen again.
Many people look to the politicians to pass laws to address the issues, and unfortunately, more often than not, we get knee-jerk reactions in the form of proposals to ban all firearms and attempts to demonize pro-gun groups such as the NRA.
Without subjecting you guys to a 5 page discussion of mental health issues in the country, it’s easy to see why politicians would prefer to pass red flag laws and be able to say something is being done by confiscating firearms, rather than talk about intangible efforts to address the underlying mental issues that seem to be at the root of many of the recently publicized shootings.
Good guys with guns keeping the bad guys away. A study says so!
But All Is Not Lost!
While no one is arguing against trying to reduce, and hopefully eliminate shootings, not everyone believes red flag laws are the way to go about it. It should come as no surprise then, that with the rise of these red flag laws comes “2nd Amendment sanctuaries”.
These counties and cities aren’t officially designated as 2nd Amendment sanctuaries, however, because that’s just called being part of the United States and following the US Constitution.
A play on the “sanctuary cities” and states popping up across the country that has vowed to ignore federal immigration laws and requests for assistance by ICE, these “2nd Amendment” sanctuary counties and cities have similarly vowed to ignore any and all confiscation orders under the red flag laws of their respective states.
One of the most recent examples of the 2A sanctuary counties was in response to the red flag law passed in Colorado in April of 2019.
Over half the counties in the state, as well as some individual cities, have officially passed resolutions declaring themselves 2nd Amendment sanctuary counties and cities, with the sheriffs choosing to side with the gun owners rather than following firearms confiscation orders.
Colorado 2nd Amendment Sanctuary Counties in Red – over half the state! Source
Of course, in the case of Colorado, like many other similar situations happening across the country, many of the 2A sanctuaries have a majority politically conservative population, though some of the more moderate and middle-of-the-road counties have also begun hopping on board.
What’s Next?
In the unfortunately often-politicized news cycles of today, whenever tragic events such as the shootings in El Paso, TX or Dayton, OH occur, vocal portions of the public cry out for additional regulations on firearms, typically in the form of “universal background checks” or “assault weapons bans”, and now, “red flag” laws, under the belief that these types of laws will ensure shooting never occur again.
Many politicians on both sides of the aisle, under pressure from these vocal segments of the population and the media, are understandably quick to join in on the call for new gun laws.
With more states continuing to pass, or trying to pass, red flag laws and politicians at the federal level discussing a national red flag law, there will undoubtedly be lawsuits filed in response to the firearms confiscations, and possibly against the 2A sanctuary counties and cities.
At the very least, state legislatures will be upset their gun control laws aren’t being enforced, and law-abiding gun owners will be upset at their firearms being taken away so easily.
Putting aside the issue of whether additional background checks beyond those already being performed will serve any purpose, and the discussion of whether civilians currently have access to “assault weapons” as it is, the sad truth remains that enacting more gun laws to stop those who commit crimes, i.e. ignore and break the law, will not stop criminals.
Instead, it will only serve to put additional restrictions on the law-abiding citizens who wish to maintain the right to hunt however they wish, or simply have a means of self-defense as our Founding Fathers intended.
While no one is against eliminating gun violence such as mass shootings, the disagreement often lies in how to go about accomplishing this goal. As any law-abiding firearms owner knows, a firearm is simply a tool to accomplish a purpose, whether it is hunting, self-defense, or defending the citizenry against a tyrannical government.
Like any other tool, it must be treated with the respect and care it deserves and used in a responsible manner. And also like any other tool, it can be misused, as seen by the rise of crimes involving knives, acid, and even cars, in Great Britain, where civilian gun-ownership is near impossible and gun crimes are essentially non-existent.
Ultimately, it may take a couple of especially egregious abuses of the red flag laws being enforced for the problems with these laws to be adequately addressed, either by amending them to prevent future abuse of the laws, or to focus on the underlying mental health issues, rather than trying to find a better-fitting Band-Aid.
If all else fails, the issue may need to follow the route of other recent firearms laws and go to the Supreme Court for a final say.
In the meantime, it is the responsibility of every gun-owner and potential gun-owner to follow the 4 rules of firearms safety, and to make sure your firearms are either secured on or near your person, or securely stowed away in a trusty safe, to make sure no authorized individuals ever gain access to your firearms to use in an unsafe or illegal manner.
What are your thoughts on red flag laws? Are we headed for a national red flag law? Let us know in the comments! If you’re interested in concealed carry, take a look at our Complete CCW Guide!
Otherwise…let’s get started first with an extra-sassy video review:
If you enjoyed that, please consider subscribing to our YouTube Channel. New stuff every week!
Now let’s get on with the written article where we go a little more in-depth.
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Fit & Feel
The EMP is over $1000 so I expect it to be a cut above standard 1911s.
EMP with Bull Barrel
I wasn’t disappointed.
The two-tone version with wooden grips is a beauty to behold. No discolorations or machining cuts I could see.
And although it’s sub-compact with an aluminum frame (27 oz)…it feels super solid in your hands.
EMP Un-Checkering
The grip is only slightly grippy so it won’t snag, and the front magazine well is completely un-checkered.
Springfield 1911 EMP Rear Checking
However the rear magazine well is nicely checkered at probably 30 LPI.
I have slightly smaller hands and have no problem with a Glock 43 Sig P365…so the grip size was perfect for me.
But John in our video thought it was a little small. If you have meaty hands you might want to test it out “in-hand.”
EMP Grip
You also get an ambidextrous safety.
EMP Ambi Safety
And if you’re a stickler for the ejector and firing pin matching with the slide…it does a great job there too.
Slide is well fitted for a factory gun and it should smooth out even more with a bunch of rounds.
Trigger is a good 5.5 lb with some take-up, nice wall, and clean break.
EMP Adjustable Trigger
There’s also an adjustable post-travel screw that helps somewhat…but it’s not mind-blowing. Reset is very strong.
Magazine release is not ambidextrous and is a little small and hard to press…which is actually what I’d like in a carry gun. Mag ejection is super strong.
Slide release lever is in the standard 1911 place…which for me means I can’t reach it well all the time.
EMP Slide Release & Mags
But I’m already used to either using my weakside thumb or sling-shotting the slide.
Now…how does it shoot?
Shootability
Sub-compact guns aren’t very fun to shoot.
But sub-compact guns with a nice aluminum frame AND in 9mm are a blast.
Shooting the Springfield EMP
It’s snappier than a full-sized gun.
But with some heft at 27 oz (compared to 30 oz of a loaded Glock 19)…the EMP is super controllable and it’s easy to shoot through a bunch of mags.
Quick mag segue…these mags from Mec-Gar feel really nice and you get three of them in the box.
EMP Slide Release & Mags
We got some nice dirt and dust into them during our shoot and they kept going.
Accuracy
With 3″ of barrel…even a bull one…you’re not looking at laser like accuracy at 25 yards.
EMP Bull Barrel & Dummy Round
We kept most of our shooting to CCW distances but still managed to hit a 100 yard IPSC torso sized plate around 30-40%.
It’s a standard 3-dot sight system.
EMP Front Sight
And I’m glad it comes factory installed with night sights.
EMP Rear Sights
We did the majority of our shooting with some dry steel cased ammo that jams up my other pistols and PCCs.
9mm Steel Cased Ammo
100% reliability.
Then we did some 7 yard accuracy tests with plinking ammo and hollowpoints while standing and at a quick pace.
EMP Tested Plinking Ammo
Here are the results…
EMP Groups
Way under minute of bad guy.
And I’m glad that the Winchester hollowpoints fared the best.
Check out our favorite plinking and self defense rounds in Best 9mm Ammo.
Reliability
Smaller framed 1911s have the reputation of being unreliable.
I’m really glad the EMP was 100% reliable with all 500 various rounds and mags we fed it.
For a true carry gun I’d run it to the 1000 round count without malfunctions. But it’s well on its way.
Upgrades & Accessories
Oh yes…I love upgrades. But for a carry gun I wouldn’t do anything to the gun itself…and not that it needs anything.
If it’s more of a fun gun…I’d point you to my 1911 gunsmithing series:
Our favorite was the Hidden Hybrid Holster appendix carry model. It took a little while to adjust retention of the gun, but worked great afterwards.
Our normal go-to Crossbreed brand had a weird peculiarity with its new Reckoning model…it almost all the time disengaged the thumb safety when we holsters.
Not cool with a single-action gun!
We still love Crossbreed’s other offerings…but it looks like the Reckoning holster for a small 1911 is a no-go.
3″ Stainless Steel Match Grade, Fully Supported Ramp, Bull
9+1 Capacity
Low Profile Combat, 3 – Dot Tritium
Overall Length: 6.6″
Height: 5″
Weight: 27 oz
By the Numbers
Reliability: 5/5
No failures of any kind in 500 rounds…most of it with crappy steel-cased ammo. Mags worked well too even with drops into fine dirt.
Accuracy: 4.5/5
For its purpose, it did great. Shoots way better than me with about 1-2 MOA groups at 7 yards with defensive ammo. Even with adrenaline it’s minute of bad guy.
Ergonomics: 5/5
Great 1911 controls and I like the ambi-safety. My complaint of the mag release is personal. Thoughtful checkering and just enough slide serrations.
Looks: 5/5
Love the bi-tone color and wooden grips. I wouldn’t change anything about it.
Customization: 4/5
It’s an un-railed 1911…but that doesn’t stop it from lights and lasers nowadays. You can also swap out the grips or sights for something different…but I don’t see the need to. Internals can be completely changed…but why for a CCW gun?
Bang for the Buck: 3.5/5
You could spend half the money for a reliable sub-compact CCW gun. But would it look and feel as nice as a well-built 1911?
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Conclusion
You can tell I like the Springfield EMP. So much so that I bought it after this test.
Real Avid’s might have the answer with their AR-15 Armorer’s Master Kit. You get a complete set of every tool you need for your next AR build, plus a bunch of really handy pieces of kit for other firearm-related projects.
So I did what comes naturally when I hear extraordinary claims, I put it to the test!
A simple project, but one that would involve tested every part of the kit – I went about building a new AR-15 using only the Real Avid kit and a vise. I won’t take you step-by-step, but I’ll give you the highlight reel from this little project–plus a whole lot more!
If you’re looking for a complete guide on how to build an AR-15, you’ll love our AR-15 Definitive Resource!
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Why Real Avid?
Surprisingly, the options you have when it comes to gunsmithing tools are fairly limited.
Finding well-made, well-designed tools built for a gun owner is a bit sparse.
Real Avid for me started with a multitool, the Gun Tool Max. The more I’ve used it, the more I liked it and the more impressed I became with the sheer quality of engineering and good sense that went into its design.
Several months later, I found myself at the Real Avid booth at SHOT Show and discovered they had a whole new line of awesome products for 2019.
Their AR-15 Armorer’s Master Kit caught my eye and I just had to try it out. They were nice enough to send me one so that I could do this little project of mine!
A complete AR-15 build using only the kit from Real Avid and a vise. The vise I’ve had for a couple of years, a Yost LV-4 Home Vise. Cheap, but effective.
A lot. Really, a whole mess of tools. Much of what is in the kit is also sold separately, but when bought together you get it all in one place and for less than you could if you got it part-by-part.
Inside the box
And it comes in a nice hard case.
What is really nice about this kit, other than all of the tools being well made and well thought out, is that it provides everything you need for drop-in AR-15s and free-float AR-15s.
It doesn’t matter what kind of rifle you’re building, you can build it with this set.
Heres a list of the tools you get:
Armorer’s Master Wrench
Lug-Lok Upper Vise Block
Smart-Fit AR-15 Lower Vise Block
AR-15 Master Bench Block
Torque Wrench
Easy-Grip Handguard Tool
AR-15 Pivot Pin Tool
AR-15 Pin Punch Set
Accu-Grip Picks
Bore Illuminator/Safety Flag
A1 & A2 Front Sight Adjuster Tool
Hard Case
Of these, there was a few that I simply didn’t use, such as the picks, safety flag, sight adjuster, and the handguard tool.
My build didn’t require any of them so they were left unused. I did handle them a good bit though, they feel sturdy and workable as does everything else.
Best Real Avid AR-15 Tools
To go part by part and step by step would require more words than you would be willing to read and I am willing to type. So we’re going to just stick to the important parts and the impressive bits.
All of the tools in the kit I used were solid, well made, and did what I hoped they would. But several of them stand out as being the stars of the show.
It’s a hammer, a muzzle device wrench, a handguard wrench, a bit for the torque wrench, and an alignment tool all in freaking one!
As a hammer, it’s decently hefty, much more gravity to it than my normal tap hammer. For an AR-15 build, that it’s not bad but for the little pins, it can be more difficult to work with than a dedicated tap hammer. Good enough for an AR build, but it wouldn’t be my one and only hammer if I was going to work more than just ARs.
A really nice thing is the removable hammer heads that are stored in the handle of the hammer plus an extra set in the hard case.
Removable and storable hammer heads
A common theme I’m going to mention is that these tools are well thought out and that starts with these hammer heads.
What sets them apart from other’s I’ve had is that they not only screw onto the hammer itself, but they also screw into their storage compartments both in the hammer’s handle and in the hard case.
This makes it basically impossible for them to fall out and that’s nice when you’re swinging this around.
This doesn’t seem like a very impressive thing at first glance, but after using it I have to say that out of the 4 upper vise blocks I own–this is my new favorite.
Upper Vise Block in a “Low” setting
Basically, a rod with a star chamber lug on one end and a flat bit at the other. What is cool about this vise block is that you can adjust the angle that it sits using two pins. The pins also store nicely in the block when you’re done using it.
I never thought about changing the angle of my block before because with my other vise blocks that isn’t an option. But now that I have that freedom… it’s awesome.
Upper Vise in a “High”
Taking the upper off and on the block is super easy too, another option I never had before. This came in handy when my handguard decided to strip a screw and I needed to get creative with my approach to the problem…
I didn’t really find the lower vise block to be as impressive as the upper vise block. Don’t get me wrong, it works and works nicely–I just didn’t find it’s extra features to be all that helpful.
“Smart-Fit” is marketing for “adjustable.” Using the bottom screw/handle you can adjust the vise block to turn a screw that mechanically expands the vise block in all directions.
The locking isn’t bad, it’s just kind of… why?
Doing this gives you a really good tight fit in the magazine well. It feels positive, has nice loud clicks as you turn the adjustment knob, and does it’s intended job well… I just didn’t really feel a need for it.
I like it, I think it will become my go-to lower vise block, but I don’t think I’ll really ever use the adjustment knob that much. I’ll set it for a “good enough” middle ground and leave it there.
Need to hammer a bolt catch pin in? This block has a spot for it. Need to completely disassemble a bolt? This block has spots for every step of the process.
Bench Block and Pins
Thankfully, Real Avid gives you a booklet that covers how to use this block because otherwise, I don’t think I would have ever worked out what goes where.
Once you do know how to use it, the block is really handy.
Do you need a pivot pin tool? I think if you asked 10 random AR hobbyists at least 8 of them would say “No.” I myself would have said no, too, before I used one.
I have big hands and big fingers. Doing small pin work is annoying at best for me and rage-inducing at worst.
Ya, that’s how it feels.
Normally, installing pivot pins is somewhere in the middle.
Step 1: load the spring and pin in
Step 2: plunge them down, turn the flag, install pin – done!
On average I would guess that this part of the build takes me maybe 5-10 minutes and at least 5 muttered curses, mostly because my fingers have a hard time holding on to the small stupid pins.
Using the pivot pin tool it took me about 30 seconds, I didn’t drop anything, I didn’t wish a pox on anyone, and I actually smiled after getting it installed.
A good pin punch set should be a standard part of anyone’s workshop. You can get any random one–or you can get a good one.
Once again, Real Avid sets themselves apart by taking a normal tool and just plus-ing it up a bit.
The punches are solid, beefy, well made, I didn’t bend a single one (the same can’t be same for all of the punches I’ve used in the past). But then there is that extra something even a simple punch can do.
Take a close look. See how half of the punch is ground down? That doesn’t seem awesome, but it is.
Because the punch is designed this way you can get RIGHT in there on an AR-15 when using it.
For something like getting the bolt catch pin installed, this is awesome. Instead of attacking the pin at a slight angle, like my other punches force me to do, I can set the punch directly over the pin and get the full force of the hammer down on top.
This one change to a simple punch has made installing bolt catches noticeably faster and easier.
Tweezers
These are magical. I have big hands and as anyone with big hands can tell you, small roll pins suck.
Roll Pin Pinchers pinching a Roll Pin
These tweezers aren’t normal, the pinching end is sized for roll pins to hold them tight enough they don’t fall but loose enough they aren’t under a vise grip.
AND they have a clamping lock that snaps closed in the handle so you don’t have to death grip them!
Hard Case
It’s a case. It’s hard. There isn’t much to say about it except that it was well made, sturdy, and was actually really handy to use as a mini-holder for all of my small parts.
I’m not sure if Real Avid did that on purpose, but it was handy either way.
I tend to judge companies harshly based on the case that they do or don’t provide. I like a good case. A good case isn’t that hard to make or that pricey.
But sooo many brands decide to make a great product and then REALLY cheap out on the case that comes with it (cough, Beretta, cough).
I’m glad that even when it comes to something simple like their case, Real Avid didn’t disappoint me.
Who Is It For?
This is clearly designed for someone who is just starting in the AR-15 world. If you’ve never built an AR-15 before or if you’re on your 2nd or 3rd build and don’t have a well-stocked workshop yet, then this kit is a great “do-all” starting point.
Real Avid also throws in a nice booklet covering a bunch of how-tos on building your AR-15.
Booklet that is actually helpful and has good pictures. I was shocked, honestly.
This not only details how to use the kit, but also covers a bunch of upgrades and mods you might make to your rifle. Directions are well written and have full-color pictures!
See? Told you it was a good booklet!
Assuming everything goes right in your build, this should have everything you need–barring unforeseen complications.
A vise and this kit will get you through 99% of builds, assuming you’re doing a fairly standard build or at least have anything weird (such as proprietary barrel nut wrenches) provided by the brands you buy them from.
Cons?
Three things, to my mind, are missing from this kit. A set of Allen keys, grease, and Loctite.
Not all AR-15 builds use Hex head screws for the handguard, but almost all of the ones I’ve built have. A set of keys in the kit would have been nice, but I can understand why it was omitted.
Grease and Loctite on the other hand really should be in the kit. A tin of Aeroshell 33msand a bottle of Loctiteis, in my opinion, needed to complete any AR-15 build.
Other than that, for this project, the kit would have had everything I needed… if it wasn’t for the FM Products Ultra Light Monolithic Upper and Handguard I decided to try.
If everything had gone to plan, I would have only been missing an Allen key and Aeroshell.
Sadly, FM Products decided to use really soft metal in their screws and I stripped one with barely finger tight pressure. This lead to the need for a flathead, hack saw, WD-40, and an hour of my life.
However, since that was a complication due to the exact handguard I used, it isn’t reflective of the tool kit itself.
But it does highlight something: this kit is (nearly) perfect if everything goes to according to plan.
Pros!
99% of what you need to build an AR-15 is in one easy to use, well made, and ready to go kit. That… is awesome.
All of the tools are well made and well-engineered. Attention was paid to the details and every piece was clearly designed and produced by people that not only know tools but they know how to build ARs.
Nearly every item in the kit that I used is now my default favorite for its job and I’ve already used most of the kit for several other smaller projects.
Finished Space Force Rifle
This brings me to one final point–while designed for AR platform rifles, the kit covers a LOT of basic firearm tools that you will find very helpful for other projects.
The Armorer’s Master Wrench and Punch Set are particularly notable for the wide range of applications they will find.
And The Builds Go On…
I started this as a project to finish one build from start to end, but after using the tools for the one build I decided that I wanted to give them a longer run before writing my thoughts on it.
6.5 Grendel AR built for coyotes and deer
Over the next several months I completed 4 more AR-15 builds, a Glock build, and customized/changed/tweaked another 5 non-AR rifles–all using tools from this kit.
One of the iteration of my Home Defense AR
The more I’ve used it, the more I like it. Every single tool and bit has worked perfectly and surpassed my expectations.
Long term durability is looking good also, the most worn of the set is by far the upper vise block
Upper Vise looking a little used, but still going strong
But most of the wear is cosmetic so far. Streaks and wear marks, but no scratches or gouges.
The star chamber lugs are definitely worn and a bit beat, but there is no peening, chipping, or anything that might damage the chamber lugs.
Upper Vise after heavy use – Lugs
All of the firearms I’ve worked on have been outstanding. Every build has proven to be reliable and lacking in nothing due to the building process.
My still in progress optics carry Glock 19 with Apex Trigger, Brownells Slide, Faxon Barrel, and Holosun optic
Plus, building and modifying things have become markedly quicker and easier thanks in large part to the nice features and design from Real Avid.
By The Numbers
Reliability: 5/5
Nothing broke, nothing stripped due to the tools, nothing gave me a single issue even after lots of builds and several months of hard use.
Ergonomics: 5/5
The grips are grippy, the handles are a bit large and that fits my hands really well (if you have small hands, some of these might be a bit on the beefy side), and nothing felt undersized or lacking.
No annoying finger groves or weirdly sized palm swells to be found!
Looks: 3/5
Maybe it’s the old fashioned back-on-the-farm mentality about tools I inherited from my cabinet maker grandfather, but flashy tools aren’t my thing. Flashy tools are normally low quality and are just more likely to get stolen by people that don’t know a good tool when they see it.
Real Avid clearly makes awesome tools that are high quality, but they are just a bit flashy for my arbitrary aesthetic taste.
However, if you want your vise block to look awesome in the background of those glamour pictures you’re taking of your newly finished build–these do look good.
Bang for the Buck: 5/5
Value delivered will depend a little on you and your tool sets. If you have a mostly finished workshop, you might be better off just picking up one or two of the standalone tools that Real Avid offers to round out what you need.
(I HIGHLY recommend the upper vise block, armorer’s wrench, and pin/punch set)
But if you are toolless or this is your first AR build or maybe this is just your first time working on guns vs. working on other things like home improvement or cars, then the AR-15 Armorer’s Master Kit is outstanding.
This kit offering you an almost one-stop-shop for AR tools is a major boon for a new AR builder.
Overall Rating: 5/5
Parting Shots
Are you looking to start your first AR build and need to equip your workshop?This kit is perfect.
Are you working on your 2nd+ build and want some really good purpose-built tools? This kit might be for you too.
After well over a hundred hours of use, 5 AR-15 builds, and a whole lot more little projects–it’s safe to say that Real Avid tools won’t let you down.
Do you have a favorite toolkit? Let us know about it in the comments! Need a guide to follow for your next AR-15 build? We got you covered: Ultimate Lower Guide, Ultimate Upper Guide
Easy to overlook, but grip is critically important on your AR!
Not just how, but what you grip can mean the difference between a hit and a miss.
Finding what is best for you isn’t always the easiest thing to do in a market that is saturated to the eyeballs.
All of the Grips!
I will be going over some of my favorite grips, some new-comers, and the differences between model to model.
Ergonomics, texture, and grip angle will be discussed, as well as affordability.
Keep in mind, everyone is different and YMMV based on comfort, but these companies offer something for everyone!
Best AR-15 Grips
We’ve organized these grips by brand, not necessarily in order of excellence!
MAGPUL Industries
Magpul has been a huge force within the firearms community, especially with AR shooters. They may have the biggest selection of anyone for different models and different budgets.
Magpul Furniture
The best part is you could practically open their catalog of grips, throw a dart, and end up with something that will work for you.
Their full line-up has many different color options and most models also come with a latching inner grip compartment for various gear.
Slightly different than the rest of the line-up, the Magpul K2/K2+ models have a slightly more vertical angle and under swept contour at the top of the grip.
Magpul K2+ on a 6.5 Grendel hunting rifle in FDE.
It may not be for everyone, but I really dig it.
Purists that like the typical A2 grip, may find the grip angle odd, but the recess at the top of the grip provides some good texture.
I personally own a K2+ in FDE on my home-rolled 6.5 Grendel hunting rifle. It has spent its time bouncing from build to build.
Lightweight and well suited for shooters with smaller hands, but unfortunately the MOE-K or SL model does not offer a (+) model, so no options in a rubberized grip.
Magpul MOE SL grips offer a great lightweight option.
Overall, the grip is thinner than the other models available with Magpul and offers a good texturing on the plastic.
The K and SL versions of the MOE grip are very similar. The only difference is that the K does not offer a beaver tail on the backstrap of the grip.
There are 2 front straps included, so shooters can either have a flat A1 face, or a finger groove like the A2. This grip can fit almost any shooter.
Bravo Company USA
Bravo Company USA has been known to produce quality firearms for some time now. Their aftermarket parts are no exception.
Between handguards, stocks, charging handles or assembled AR15s, it would be hard to find someone that was unhappy with their purchase.
All their grips are made in America, and color options include Black, FDE, and Foliage Green. The models look similar with minor differences, and they have a modular model as well.
Let’s go over the differences between their Mod 0 through Mod 3.
The Mod 0 along with the whole BCM lineup, uses a more reduced angle with their grips to accommodate the modern stances of gunfighters with the M16/AR15 platform.
A reduced angle grip generally gives better ergonomics but YMMV.
The Mod 0 is a bit different without the addition of a high-ride beavertail and is more like the A2 in that respect.
The Mod 0 and Mod 1 have the same thickness in the design of the grip, and they also share a removable insert to close gaps between the receiver and trigger guard.
The Mod 2 has the features of the Mod 1 but is modular with the backstrap like the Magpul MIAD. However, it has only the top beaver tail section modular.
It lacks certain features that the Mod 0 through Mod 2 have, such as the removable insert, or the interchangeable beavertails, but it makes up for that with a thicker grip.
For the price, the Mod3 is the author s favorite BCM grip.
While this may not be for everyone, I am a big fan of keeping things simple.
The Mod 3 has the same latched, internal storage system, has a tab to close the trigger guard void, and just feels great in my hand.
These things just stick to your hand. From the original SureGrip, many models have been added to the catalog, but all typically have the same type of tacky rubberized grip.
Colors vary from model, but can include Black, FDE, OD Green, Grey, Pink, Blue, and Purple.
Keep in mind that there are many knockoffs out in the wild of the interweb, so make sure if you purchase an Ergo Grip, do so with a reputable dealer. There are a few different models, and they offer something for everyone.
The Tactical Deluxe is one of my favorite grips for bench rifle or precision rifle work in the AR platform.
Between the oversized palm of the grip, amazing rubberized texturing, and the option to run a palm shelf, this would be a great choice for long-range work.
The Tactical Deluxe with palm shelf on a bench rest LR308.
There are 5 models of Tactical Deluxe Grips. Two models have the palm shelf and 3 models without.
Both have options for a flat top, or beavertail. One of the models is their Zero Angle Grip, which is vertical. This could be a great choice for an AR, or a precision rifle chassis.
Stark Equipment
Stark Equipment was founded 5 years ago and offers grips and angled fore-grips for the AR, and the AK.
Their design is a little different than the others previously mentioned as it lowers the overall grip of the hand to be more in line with the trigger.
The Stark One Grip, and the AR Rifle Grip are essentially the same model. The Stark One uses a built-in trigger guard that replaces an existing one.
Since more manufacturers offer built-in trigger guards with billet and forged receivers, Stark Equipment made the AR Rifle Grip lack that features. It also makes the AR Rifle Grip less expensive.
Lowering the pistol grip allows better trigger finger placement by design.
The overall design lowers your grip due to a lowered beaver tail. This allows room for an optional QD sling swivel mounts to be installed in the grip.
Both models offer secured internal storage within the frame for batteries.
Its over shape reminds me of an M249 SAW grip and takes me back to the smell of burnt powder and hot brass laying on the ground.
Parting Shots
There are many different companies within the firearm industry that make grips to accessorize your rifle.
Out of the ones I use all the time, my go-to general purpose “Goldilocks” grip is the Magpul MOE+ for it’s nice beavertail, grippy rubber texture, and ribbed front strap.
While kits are on the market that allow you to switch your standard .223/5.56 upper into a .22LR upper, these have disadvantages due to the barrel but being designed for the ammo.
A new upper that is dedicated for .22LR is a fast and simple way of avoiding those problems while offering you the greatly reduced price of ammo!
Be sure to sub to our YouTube Channel for new reviews and random stuff every week.
What Is It?
Palmetto State Armory is well known for budget-friendly, reliable, quality firearms and uppers. We’ve reviewed almost every PSA offering under the sun and have always found them to be an amazing value for your money.
There are two parts that make this a dedicated .22LR upper vs just any other upper, the BCG and barrel.
Chambered for .22LR and featuring a 1:16 twist rate, this barrel is going to be a lot more accurate out of the box than if you were to try and use your .223/5.56 barrel and a conversion kit.
The BCG is radically different from a standard BCG. It’s lighter, redesigned, and purpose-built for the project.
Lower and BCG
One thing to remember though is that any .22LR AR-15 will require dedicated .22LR magazines. There are a bunch of these on the market, but we used Black Dog Machine 10-Round magazines.
And yes, .22LR AR-15 magazines come in a lot of round-counter flavors such as drums!
Fit, Feel, and Finish
If you’ve picked up anything made by PSA before, then you know how the fit, feel, and finish is for this upper. It is exactly what you would expect from them, nothing to write home about, but fully serviceable and ready for the range.
The coating is simple but robust. Cleanly and evenly applied and decently finished, the upper won’t win beauty contests or help you flex on poors – but it will handle well and give you what you need from a quality firearm.
Range Report
The heart and soul of this upper is the simple fact that it is an AR-15 upper. Manual of arms and use is what you’re used to with any other AR-15 upper, the only difference functionally is that the .22LR has a shorter charging handle pull distance.
Reliability
Using a PSA or DIY 80% lower, the upper ran flawlessly. Nothing to really talk about since it just worked, exactly like it should.
However, we did run into a problem when we switched the upper to an Aero Precision lower.
We were not able to identify what the cause of the issue was, but we had repeated failures and malfunctions with that lower.
John and Aero Lower
Including one very weird malfunction that resulted in a spent .22lr case being trapped behind the BCG between the BCG and the buffer tube. The upper still functioned with the spent case rattling around back there, but that is still a not-good malf.
Because of this issue – you might want to consider that there could be part interchangeability questions with this upper. If you’re using a PSA lower, you should be good to go, but YMMV with other lowers.
Accuracy
We fed the upper a host of different .22LR ammo and it worked outstandingly with each. While shooting for groups at 25-yards, each ammo type grouped well and showed no signs of problems such as keyholing.
PSA .22LR Upper Groups
The best ammo we found was CCI Mini-Mag was the best and shot around 1-MOA.
Proof that a dedicated .22LR barrel and bolt is a LOT better than trying to fling .22LR down .223/5.56 rifling!
As you would expect with an AR-15, everything fits well and offers some of the best ergos on the market.
Looks: 4/5
While a bit standard and basic, the looks, fit, and finish are well done and cover the bases.
Customization: 5/5
Even in .22LR, it’s still an AR-15! Literally, everything can be customized to match your needs.
Overall Rating: 4/5
Parting Shots
A dedicated .22LR upper offers the ability to plink, train, and commit the rifle to muscle memory without needing to spend a boatload on ammo.
It also offers a much better platform for small game hunting since the twist rate is able to correctly stabilize the very lightweight .22LR rounds.
A few of our favorite things…
We also love to use .22LR to train new shooters and introduce people to the awesome world of firearms!
A .22LR AR-15 is one of our favorites since it helps bridge a gap between “scary black rifle” and being one of the best firearm platforms ever designed.
Do you roll with a dedicated .22LR upper? Got a conversion kit instead? If you’re looking for more awesome calibers to use with your standard AR-15 lower, take a look at the Best Caliber Conversion Kits!
We have the mini SMG wannabes from CZ and SIG, we have smaller and smaller ARs, and of course, compact handguns rein supreme.
Today we are going to turn that on its head and talk about one of my favorite AR configurations, the M16.
Specifically, the M16A4.
M16A4 Clone
Table of Contents
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Background
My love affair with the venerated musket began in the early days of my Marine Corps career.
The Corps has moved to M4s for grunts, but when I joined, infantry Marines were mostly carrying M16s.
In boot camp, we used ancient M16A2s and it wasn’t until my time in SOI did I receive the more modern musket, the M16A4.
From top to bottom: M16A1, M16A2, M4A1, M16A4
The M16A4 kept most of the features of the M16A2 but became more modular.
The M16A4 features the same 20-inch heavyish barrel, the fixed stock, the A-frame front sight, and Safe/Semi/Burst modes the M16A2 was known for.
The big changes were the introduction of the Knight’s Armament RAS rail system that gave Marines a quad rail system to mount lights, lasers, and so much more.
Additionally, the carrying handle was now removable and the Marine Corps began fielding the Trijicon ACOG as their rifle combat optic of choice.
Over time the Marine Corps did approve the use of the 6-position collapsing stock on M16s for smaller shooters to use while wearing armor.
I like to call these the reverse stretch M16A4s. This was past my time, but I doubt this was a common modification.
In 2015 the USMC decided that the combat arms MOSes would finally be issued the M4 as the standard infantry rifle alongside the M27 IAR.
The M16A4 still serves in many non-combat positions and will likely be around for quite some time.
USMC M27 IAR with Trijicon ACOG and RMR
The M16A4 and I served together for a long period of time and I decided I needed one once more. This decision occurred at SHOT while shooting one of Aero Precision’s post sample full auto M16A4s.
It’d been years since I fired a 20-inch barrel AR 15, and I forgot a few things about how great it is.
This leads us to my main point…
Why Should You Build an M16A4 Clone
There are a few reasons, but performance is going to be where I rest my argument.
The M16A4 and it’s 20-inch barrel give you the most ballistic advantage possible from your .223 or 5.56 round.
(L to R) .22LR, 9mm, 5.7×28, 5.56 NATO
The .223 and it’s military variant the 5.56 was built around the 20-inch barrel and reaches its peak potential in a 20-inch barrel.
You’ll get a faster, harder-hitting bullet. M193 from a 20-inch barrel will often zip through most AR500 plates. That little extra velocity can make a big difference in barrier penetration.
Barrels come in a lot of lengths, like these Faxon barrels
You’ll also receive less overall recoil and muzzle rise. In fact, you’ll find yourself feeling hardly any recoil or muzzle rise. Full-sized rifles are absolute kittens when it comes to shooting.
The full-length rifle stock is a manner of contention with many.
As a big guy, I always found the length of pull to be comfortable, but many smaller specimens did not share my appreciation for it. However, as a real rifle stock, it does provide an excellent cheek rest that allows for a solid cheek weld.
Also, that stock is rock solid.
It doesn’t move at all.
It allows you to rest the gun high in the pocket of your shoulder and get behind it with confidence. It makes it easy to stabilize and hold onto.
M16A4 Buttstock
When it comes to using iron sights the longer barrel and fixed front sight provides a longer sight radius which makes it easier to shoot accurately.
Finally, a longer barrel gives you more room when you attach a bayonet. Now, this sounds foolish to count this as a plus in 2019. You say that until you try to stab a zombie in the brain.
That extra 4 inches over a carbine will be well appreciated, so will that solid stock for butt stroking zombies.
You can also compete in NRA High Power Competitions, at least with iron sighted models.
NRA High Power Competitor
High Power matches replicate the USMC Table 1 qualification shoot in many ways and can be a fun and dynamic shooting competition.
M16A4 Clones Parts List
I admittedly didn’t build mine, and as you can see, mine is not a true clone. This is an Aero Precision M16A4 clone base model.
They do two models, this is the slightly cheaper base model that lacks the rail system, but has the adjustable rear sights built into a carry handle.
The second model has a full-length rail system, rail covers, and a KAC vertical foregrip. This is much closer to an actual M16A4, but also a bit heavier and more expensive.
I went simpler because I wanted a simple rifle that shared the characteristics of an M16A4 in a cheaper, lighter weight platform.
If you want to build your own, great, we’ve tracked down the parts and pieces you need to build an M16A4, or at least the closest amalgamation you can.
It All Starts with the Lower
Like all builds, you’ll need a lower. Any lower could technically work, but the Aero Precision M16A4 lower gives you a good mix of quality and a great price.
This stock is strong and stable and comes with a handy component to keep a cleaning kit or some skittles.
There are seriously some awesome kits out there designed for the opening in the stock. There are also weights which are popular with competition shooters to better balance the rifle.
But don’t forget, Aero also has the lower, LPK, and stock in one complete lower if you’d like that method of building!
The Upper needs to be a flat top, forged upper, with a forward assist and brass deflector, not too big of a demand.
You can fill that upper with an upper parts kit from Aero as well for less than $20 bucks.
I’m a bit of an elitist when it comes to BCGs in some ways. I do want a quality model made to last. I also want a staked gas key a tough finish and a reputable brand. Daniel Defense makes a great BCG, as does Aero.
The RAS rail comes with the standard covers and is a heavy-duty drop in an option that is well proven. It is expensive, but without a doubt, it’s worth the cost.
It will ensure any laser aiming devices keep a true zero and it will provide you with an incredibly stable platform to grip your rifle with.
Sighting In
Lastly, to top off the upper you’ll also need the famous carry handle sighting system. You can a carry handle for 20 bucks… But I don’t suggest that. These cheap carry handles are rarely robust.
M16A4 Rear Sight and Carry Handle
If you’ve never seen a set of M16A4 sights, you may not know how dynamic and robust they are. You can make some very fine adjustments to these sights.
They are more dynamic than most military rifle sights and you want a quality set to ensure you have a good zero, and proper adjustments for the 20-inch barrel of the A4 rifle.
Colt makes a true military spec carry handle iron sight set and is well made and very dependable for this role.
If you are going truly clone correct, you’ll also need an ACOG. At least for a USMC build. The Trijicon ACOG is one of the best rifle combat optics on the planet.
My Squad, Helmand Province, Afganistan 2009 – Lots of ACOGs
The ACOG utilizes a built-in bullet drop compensator and for this to be an accurate BDC you have to obtain the proper model for your barrel length.
For the 20-inch barrel, you’ll want the TA31RCO-A4CP. This is specifically designed for the USMC and the 20-inch barrel M16A4.
The ACOG is one of the best combat optics ever made. It’s only now slightly showing its age in comparison to the rise of LPV optics out there.
A Fellow Squad Member with an M16A4 and an ACOG
The ACOG is still an extremely durable optic designed to be beaten up and roughed up.
If you want to go crazy you can hunt down a PEQ-15. A PEQ-15 is a military-grade laser aiming device that contains a visible laser as well as an IR laser.
They are extremely expensive and quite hard to find. Some retailers have them on backorder if you want to play the waiting game.
So, how clone correct do you want to get? What about becoming a grenadier? Or, a non-NFA variant of one?
Lewis Machine and Tool makes a replica M203 that is a 37mm flare launcher. This keeps it from being a destructive device and therefore it’s non-NFA. In fact, you don’t even need an FFL for it.
This M203 is designed to work with A2 profile barrels and the Knight’s RAS rail. You must remove the bottom rail and attach the LMT M203 over the A2 profile barrel.
Bam, now you are feeling the weight and pain of my friend Kyle on our second deployment.
The reason he punches holes in drywall is his rage at carrying an M16A4 with an M203 and a SMAW rocket launcher.
Seriously, it does add 3 pounds to your rifle and costs over a grand, but it sure as hell looks cool.
USMC M16A4 with M203 training at Twentynine Palms
Also popping flares and smoke bombs with this bad boy is a ton of fun.
The Rifleman’s Rifle
The M16A4 might be the last general issue full-length rifle our military sees. I know that carbines are rifles technically, but the M16A4 marks the end of an era with the United States military.
M16A4
Maybe it’s one that needed to happen.
Are you going to build your own M16A4 clone now? Want to jazz it up? Check out our Complete AR-15 Upgrades article to make it your own.
Not sure what optic or scope to get for your AR? We’ve bought or used almost all of them…
A Couple AR-15 Optics
We’ll cover 1x optics and magnified scopes, plus recommended mounts, accessories, and backup sights. By the end of this, you’ll know the perfect one for your budget and end use.
Now…let’s started!
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Best AR-15 Red Dots
These are “red dots” or “reflex” sights which are exactly what they sound like…they superimpose a red dot as the aiming reticle.
Whereas with standard “iron sights” where you normally keep one eye closed and have to perfectly line up the two sights…red dots allow you to keep both eyes open and have a lot more leeway with where your head or eyes are positioned.
Tested Budget Red Dots All On
This makes them much faster in acquiring a target and also allows for more peripheral vision. Plus, they are much more useful in darker environments.
1. Bushnell TRS-25 AR
Bush TRS-25 on AK
The budget TRS-25 red dot that has a history of great reviews and personal performance. I would caution against going any cheaper unless you are shooting low-recoiling .22 LR.
With optics, you’ll usually find that you really get what you pay for…
I see plenty of TRS-25’s during rifle competitions and the owners all say that they are holding up well.
I used one on my AR (~1000 rounds) before upgrading. Now it’s on my AK-47 pistol and even with the higher recoil of the 7.62×39, it has held zero for over 500 rounds and multiple water splashes.
I recommend getting a riser for the TRS-25 for use in the AR-15 for easier target acquisition and especially if you plan on using irons or backup irons. I do not like the riser that comes with the TRS-25 since I broke mine during installation.
I recommend getting the .83″ UTG version (save some weight with the slim riser) which has worked well for myself and others (gives co-witness).
A more purposeful (and newer) Sparc geared towards AR-15’s. The Sparc AR ($199) is super beefy and can take a lot of punishment with the rubber housing. One great thing is that it takes one AAA battery.
The glass is the clearest of the “budget” red dots but has a slightly smaller field of view when compared to the Holosun and Aimpoint Micros. Full review HERE.
My best bang-for-the-buck red dot that ran head to head against the Sparc AR and Primary Arms in my Best Budget Red Dot Reviews.
Best Budget Red Dots
The Holosun HS403 ($140) has clear glass and a larger field of view when compared to the Sparc AR. It also survived my drop tests and temperature tests.
Holosun also makes other models that are solar powered and even some that have two reticles…including one that mimics EOTech.
Costs a nice handgun but lasts for 50,000 hours on one battery and is fully waterproof. Also has extreme weather capabilities (around -20 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit).
The Micro H-1 what I run on my regular AK where the optic directly sits on top of the gas block which gets extremely hot.
Aimpoint H-1 on AK
Thousands of rounds and still going strong. I would not hesitate to go into something unknown with my Aimpoint H-1. There is also a T version which supports night-vision, but for most people, the H-1 is everything you will ever need.
There are two reticle size options…2 MOA or 4 MOA.
If you’re mounting on your AR-15, I would opt for the 2 MOA since it’s still plenty good for close quarters but can be useful for farther engagements or if you ever plan on using a magnifier.
And for a nice optic…you need a better mount that will hold zero better. I suggest LaRue which is what I use for all my “nice” optics.
What I would buy currently for my AR-15 if I did not have the older Comp ML3.
The Patrol Rifle Optic ($450) optic is bigger but gives an even beefier enclosure, 3-years of continuous battery life, night vision capability, is submersible up to 150 ft, and better temperature tolerance (-50 to 160 degrees). Plus, it’s cheaper than the Micro and comes with a mount.
Check out our YouTube review of it after 3+ years and thousands of rounds:
We also have a full written review (with some hammer torture testing of course).
Aimpoint had it’s tubular “reflex” sights while Eotech had it’s distinct “holographic” sights. While the technology was a little different, both were heavily used by the US military and had fervent supporters.
We go over all the important differences in
Then a disaster hit EOTech and culminated in a lawsuit from the US Government in 2015 for the sights losing their zero due to hot/cold weather and moisture.
But they are back.
John Wick I’m Back
And if you do like the large circle reticle, I would recommend the newer EXPS2-0 ($490) model which allows for 1/3 co-witness with iron sights.
EOTech EXPS2-0 Reticle
It’s the smallest EOTech model currently and has clear glass, 600 hours of battery life, integrated QD mount, and tons of other stuff.
Top Holographic Sights
We test this and others from Vortex and Holosun in our Best Holographic Sights article and video below. Complete with video through each one.
Check how it compared to the competition in our Best 3x Magnifiers shootout.
Best Fixed Magnification Scopes
Now we dive into optics with some magnification!
We’ll first start with some compact fixed scopes and then onto more traditional variable magnification scopes.
8. Vortex Spitfire 3x
A fixed 3x magnifier, this optic is built specifically for the AR platform shooting 5.56 since the reticle has dropdowns for 0-500 yards.
Since it’s from Vortex, it has an unlimited lifetime warranty that is fully transferable.
Spitfire Reticle
The Vortex Spitfire ($350) 5 intensity levels and the ability to choose between a red or green reticle to allow for shooting in darker areas, and comes with a mount.
You might need some practice to shoot closer distances because of the fixed magnifier, but the Spitfire is a great optic that I liken to a budget ACOG.
Here’s a view through the optic. Real-life is crisper…it was hard to get my phone to focus on the reticle especially with the 3x magnification.
The Trijicon Advanced Combat Optical Gunsight (ACOG) is battle proven, compact, and basically bombproof.
The recommended TA31F version is a fixed 4x magnification and has a reticle calibrated for AR’s shooting 5.56 from 0-800 meters.
ACOG Reticle
The ACOG is expensive because it combines the best of all worlds…it does not need a battery during the day since its fiber optic system illuminates the chevron (upside-down V) reticle, while at night the tritium lamps take over and are guaranteed to glow for 15 years.
I would highly recommend trying one out in person since the fixed sight system is not for everyone.
Consider the ACOG or the Spitfire if you’re looking at mostly longer range engagements since shorter distances require some getting used to. We cover all the most popular models in Best ACOG Scopes.
Great glass at 1x plus a sweet reticle they dub the ACSS that has a small reticle for precise shots and a larger circle for close-up targets.
Primary Arms at 1x, ACSS Reticle
1x is very clear and there’s less distortion at 6x compared to the runner-up Strike Eagle 1-6x scope.
Primary Arms at 6x, ACSS Reticle
See more at Best 1-6x Scopes where we have view-through videos too.
When you buy directly from Primary Arms you get a free scope ring. But I would opt for the upgraded extended single piece for ease of install and balance.
My previous 3-Gun optic of several years which allowed me to much more easily hit the 375-yard targets at my local competition compared to my previous 1-4x TAC30.
Vortex Strike Eagle at 1x
Very affordable and very clear glass from 1-4x. I can see some hints of distortion at 6x but since I usually only use the max magnification one stage a match it doesn’t bother me.
Vortex Strike Eagle at 6x
If you’re shooting closer matches or distances, you can just turn it to 3-4x as well to minimize the minor distortion.
The reticle is pretty good for close-up shots as well as farther shots.
I paired mine up with an extended Aero one-piece mount for a super-secure hold and weight savings.
This is the go-to AR rifle scope for rifle competitions when you will be engaging 300+ yard targets and 1-4x just doesn’t cut it.
The 1-6x Razor has really clear glass and is built tough. Compared to the others…the glass is much clearer, you have a larger field of view, and a more forgiving eye box (location where your eye is and you will still get the full field of view).
Razor HD 2 Reticle
If tenths of a second matter in your rifle shooting…this is the one to get.
One of our recommended hunting optics (Best Hunting Rifles) where you don’t necessarily need 1x but might need something more magnified. The 3-9x VX Freedom fills this need nicely and at a great price.
Mossberg Patriot 30.06 with VX Freedom 3-9x
I’m running it on my 30.06 rifle and so far it’s held up to the pretty large recoil.
Glass is very clear at 3x.
VX Freedom at 3x
As well as at 9x.
VX Freedom at 9x
The Freedom takes over from Leuopold’s venerable VX-1 scope which we previously recommended. If you don’t mind it being phased out, there could be some good deals there.
It was really hard choosing my favorite “long range scope” for the AR-15. Normally I think of them as 5-25x scopes but that’s a little too much magnification for the 5.56 cartridge.
Maybe not for everyone, but if you’re competing and don’t have time to switch your AR-15 scope back to 1x…these offset sights ($25) from Ade Advanced will help you get a better time.
Ade Advanced 45 Degree BUIS
All you need to do is tilt your gun and you have these ready for close targets.
Viewthrough of Ade 45 Degree BUIS
Our budget pick so you can see if you want to upgrade to Dueck Defense ones (the Gold Standard).
Now that you’ve seen everything for the AR-15 from red dot sights to ACOG’s and variable optics, what will you choose for your purpose? Check out more in our Gun & Gear Reviews.
Wow, there’s a lot of CCW insurance providers now.
And like you…I wanted to make sure I had the best.
I feel it’s one of those things that if you really need it…you want to make sure you have the best.
USCCA Membership
Well…I guess there’s my seal of approval!
Read on to learn more about why I chose USCCA and how they compare to other insurance companies such as NRA’s Carry Guard (now defunct, more info down below).
August 2019 Update: Still a paying member! And USCCA reached out to me to offer you guys Pew Pew Tactical’s online beginner pistol course for free ($67 value). Details at the bottom.
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What Exactly is Concealed Carry & Self Defense Insurance
I only became aware of the entire concept of concealed carry insurance earlier this year after USCCA gave out free t-shirts at SHOT show. I would have forgotten…but their emails do not let you forget.
So Many Emails
But hey…super effective since I ended up buying the insurance and writing this article!
So what exactly is this kind of insurance?
Basically…if you defend yourself with a gun (or other weapon), you’re going to be in a big mess…even if it was justified.
Insurance comes in to help with bail, civil/criminal defense, lost wages, etc.
Chances are you’ll never have to use it.
But if you’re carrying…there’s that slight possibility. And we’ve all seen what happens to people who go on trial for self-defense (It’s Not the Odds, It’s the Cost).
And it’s not a pretty sight.
At least now you might not have to go into bankruptcy and wreck your family.
Pricing
Next thought I had was…ok, so there’s that slight possibility of a world of hurt…how much does it cost to alleviate it and protect my loved ones?
*UpdateOctober 2017: They have updated their protection levels to Gold, Platinum, and Elite.
USCCA has 3 tiers of protection:
Gold (Up to $600,000 in protection) at $22/month
Platinum (Up to $1,150,000 in protection) at $30/month
Elite (Up to $2,225,000 in protection) at $47/month
Not bad…at least at the lowest tier. That’s like two boxes of 9mm a month.
I’m not some insurance pro, and if you’re in the market for this stuff always do your own research and read the actual fine print for whatever insurance product you end up getting.
Let’s walk through each of these using the Platinum plan (since it’s closest to the NRA plan):
USCCA Plans, as of 10/17/2017
$1,000,000 in Civil Suit Defense, Civil Suit Damages, Firearm Theft
What they’ll pay up to in civil cases
$150,000 in Criminal Defense Protection
Up-front payment (important) for attorney’s retainer
$25,000 / $250,000 Bail Bonding
The asterisk says “Reflects 10% of the face amount of the bond. For example, $25,000 reflects a $250,000 bond.“
It’s my understanding you’ll only get 10% of the bond (whatever it is), and only up to $25,000 which would mean a $250,000+ bond.
Hardship, Psychology Support, & Compensation
Costs to help with what happens due to the incident and court proceedings
Let me know if I goofed anywhere too!
Cunningham’s Law
Still with me?
USCCA Self Defense Shield vs NRA Carry Guard
August Update: NRA Carry Guard is now shutdown due to several investigations and lawsuits. The only thing that looks to remain is its training segment.
It’s insurance right?
So I definitely compared the rates and coverage vs some other guys. In this case I went with the 2nd biggest (or at least 2nd best marketed) player…the NRA’s Carry Guard.
I always knew NRA had some insurance program…that wasn’t the greatest according to almost everyone.
But its new Carry Guard made a big splash…but not for being revolutionary. But for howNRA dis-invited USCCA from its 2017 Annual Meeting where they announced their new insurance.
Price: $30/month or $347/year (USCCA) vs $31.95/month or $359/year (NRA)
First thing that bothers me is that you save peanuts when you go for a year…so I signed up for monthly myself. Second, they are roughly the same for all their different levels. Slight Edge to USCCA.
How Much Protection: $1,150,000 (USCCA) vs $1,000,000 (NRA)
Pretty close too for their respective tiers. Looks like USCCA’s $1,000,000 civil is added plus its criminal while NRA’s is lumped together. Edge to USCCA.
Criminal Defense Payout Method: 100% up front (USCCA) vs 20% up front and 80% if not guilty (NRA)
This is a BIGGIE!
You’ll get 150K up front from USCCA for criminal defense while only 20% of $150K from NRA which only equals $30K. Anything else you’ll have to pony up yourself. And you won’t get anything else if you’re found guilty! I’m all for punishing the actually guilty but that sucks…especially when USCCA doesn’t have that caveat.
Big Edge to USCCA.
Types of Weapons Covered: Legal weapons (USCCA) vs firearm only (NRA)
Another big one…USCCA will cover legal weapons such as knives, fists, bats, etc. while NRA is only your firearm. I don’t carry my gun much but will carry other things, so this one was as big factor.
Edge to USCCA
Spousal Coverage: Yes for both, but USCCA is only inside the home.
For a while there was some discussion on whether it applied for NRA but now it seems it is indeed covered.
For USCCA you can add on your same coverage for your spouse for as low as $77/year based on your plan. That means everywhere in the US.
Previous edge to NRA since it has protection for your spouse outside of the home. But now goes to USCCA because of the awesome bargain to add on your spouse for your same coverage.
Mr. and Mrs. Smith
Attorney Network: All over 50 states (USCCA) vs no (NRA)
I’m mixed over this one since on one hand I’d like to know that there’s firearms attorneys ready to help…but I’m also afraid they might not be the best. I like the option of having both.
Edge to USCCA.
Training: Yes to both.
I didn’t really research that much into this…but it looks like USCCA has some videos while NRA has it coming soon. However, it does seem like NRA has in-person classes…but having their insurance might not be a prerequisite and you have to pay.
Remains to be seen…but edge to USCCA for having it up already.
Again, let me know if things have changed…yet again.
USCCA vs Others
Other Insurance Providers
I know a bunch of you are thinking right now…but I’ve got [other kind of CCW protection], how does it compare?!?
I tried going down the rabbit hole but got really lost. I’ll leave it to you to research more.
Here’s some of the ones I’ve found.
CCW Safe: Technically not insurance but provides protection in the form of covering your legal defense with their team.
Second Call Defense: Pretty similar numbers but the up-front attorney retainer is lower (max is $10k).
Texas Law Shield: They have a network of their own attorneys across TX and some other states…but aren’t everywhere. And they found themselves in some hot water with a class action suit.
It was the most well-known to me. And the whole NRA thing had me rooting for the underdog.
Pretty much same price as NRA but with slightly more in overall protection.
Up front criminal defense protection instead of less up front and the rest only when you’re acquitted.
Ability to be covered with all legal weapons.
Covered my wife at home which is all she needs. She doesn’t carry out of the house…but the ability to add her on for $77/year is a great perk.
Attorney network + ability to choose my own. Some of the other ones you’re forced to use their network.
Some Negatives
I’m very glad to not have actually used the insurance. But off the bat there’s a flurry of emails. So be ready for that…but it’s something that’s easily remedied with an unsubscribe.
Also, the tone of the videos and ads that now I’m bombarded on other sites (thanks retargeting) is always a scare tactic.
I get it!
Conclusion
I ended up with the cheapest Silver monthly plan from USCCA (now a legacy plan). Check out all of them here.
And that’s because I know there’s the very small chance of me needing it, and I don’t carry most of the time anyways. But I do like how it covers both my wife and me in the house. And if she ever decides to carry out outside…it’s only $77/year (for the Gold).
What’s your take on CCW insurance…do you have USCCA or another one?
Now you’ll have piece of mind and a great refresher (or intro) course on safe pistol handling. You’ll get an email with a special code 2-3 weeks after join the USCCA family.
Among revolver aficionados, there is really only one model spoken of in hushed tones and afforded nearly spiritual reverence…the Colt Python.
Would you just look at that? Seriously, Colt Pythons are gorgeous.
The Python was manufactured from 1955 to 1996 – a time frame during which production understandably slowed – and then from 1996 to 2005 it was offered as a Colt Custom Shop option.
Once 2005 hit, it was discontinued entirely.
And thus ended an era of spectacularly hand-fitted, carefully built revolvers.
Not to say there aren’t some awesome revolvers out there because there absolutely are but the Colt Python wasn’t just a revolver, it was a masterpiece.
Fortunately for me, a friend of mine owns two and lets me run them when I’m in town, so I took the excuse to shoot them again, take some video, and write them up.
They are, after all, legendary in the gun world.
If you’re looking for one, you can normally find them used but they won’t be cheap!
When the Colt Python entered production in 1955 it was being built on Colt’s I-frame.
The I-frame was basically the same as the company’s E-frame with one difference: the firing pin was mounted inside the frame. In fact, you’ll find a lot of people talk about E-and-I-Frame models as a whole unit rather often.
A pair of Colt Pythons. (From the collection of Diane Walls.)
They are not actually identical, though.
The first Python to be made was the six-inch barrel variant but the four-inch barrel quickly followed.
Three-inch and eight-inch variants were produced, too. In fact, the three-inch model is often referred to as the Combat Python and is considered a rare collector’s piece.
And, eventually, the 2.5-inch barrel length emerged. According to Al De John, a Colt Master gunsmith from 1946 well into the 1990s, there was a reason it was specifically 2.5-inches.
A Colt Python in .357 Magnum with a 2.5-inch barrel and a custom trigger done by Grant Cunningham. (From the collection of Diane Walls.)
In an interview with Handguns Magazine several years ago he said “It might have been Al Gunther [superintendent of the Colt factory and production overseer] who first suggested we put a vent rib across the top of the barrel. It didn’t do anything, but it sure looked good.
I also remember there was a controversy over the look and finish of the muzzle.”
Yes, you read right. The rib on the Colt Python was added for aesthetic purposes rather than for specific function. It was also, according to De John, why the shortest barrel offered was 2.5-inches.
It “was the shortest barrel we could make and still fit a vent on the rib,” he said.
.357 Magnum is the chambering you’re most likely to find a Colt Python in because that was the main cartridge Colt went with.
It wasn’t all looks and wow factor, though. Interestingly, in the same interview, De John also referenced the blued barrels as more than only looking good.
“We…had a radius on the muzzles of our guns, but with the Python we ended up getting our best groups with a flat muzzle that had a countersink to it.” The problem with that was a sharp contrast of the polished muzzle and the blued barrel.
De John said the polishing “left a ‘dish’ that produced an optical illusion and made the muzzle look lopsided instead of round.” In the end it was De John who suggested they cut out the polishing and leave the muzzle of the Python blued, retaining accuracy and eliminating the crooked look.
The textured walnut grips and Colt emblem found on original Colt Pythons.
Oh, De John was also the guy who built the very first pre-production Python serialized One.
Also, for the first couple years the Python was in production they were made only by De John and one other gunsmith. You could say he knows his stuff.
Some nicely-planned features of the Python included a full-length underlug, high-grade walnut grips, and fully adjustable sights.
Custom grips on an original 2.5-inch barrel Colt Python (the original grips are still in the possession of the gun’s owner).
And although there are some guns running around with a shiny nickel-plated finish it’s the deep Colt Royal Blue finish that tends to draw the eye.
Also, the nickel plating ended up replaced by stainless steel with the passage of time.
So what makes the Python different than the stuff you find on the market today? Basically, the knowledge and skill of the men who built them.
The guns were hand-fitted, hand-polished, and created as works of usable, durable art rather than an assembly line “that’ll do” pistol.
There are an insane number of clones out there – when in doubt, have a gun checked out – but only an actual Python looks and runs smooth as silk and reliably as clockwork.
Today Pythons can sell for upwards of $4,000 depending on the model and condition; ever so often someone scores one for $1500 but it’s becoming increasingly rare.
That’s a bit incredible considering the guns originally sold for $125.00.
The Pew Pew
It would be easy to wax poetic about shooting Pythons. I’ve been fortunate to fire several over the years, I’m just too poor to own one myself.
What can I say, writers don’t exactly live the high life. When it comes right down to it, though, it’s the trigger that makes the Python so impressive.
The Colt Python is a six-shot model and yes, six shots of .357 Magnum are a great idea for self-defense purposes.
The original triggers on Pythons deliver it all from a smooth, consistent DA pull to a glass-rod-crisp break to a remarkably nice reset.
There aren’t very many DA guns on the market about which I’ll say “nice trigger” but Pythons are definitely one of, if not THE, guns to have earned trigger-related accolades.
A 4-inch barrel Colt Python in a custom Alessi holster with python skin inserts, of course.
Many shooters believed that fantastic DA pull was the result of a V-shaped mainspring which differed from the single leaf-spring used by other manufacturers at the time.
If you want a revolver with an impressive trigger you want a Colt Python.
The most recent trigger time I had with Pythons was courtesy of Diane Walls, a friend, and firearms instructor at the Firearms Academy of Seattle.
Of her two Pythons, one has the short 2.5-inch barrel and the other has a four-inch barrel; the larger gun has a factory trigger and the smaller one had custom work done by none other than Grant Cunningham.
This Python has a trigger job done by Grant Cunningham and the trigger is epic.
Grant did a stellar job on that trigger – the wow factor is off the charts – and I love every opportunity I get to shoot it. It is, quite simply, the finest revolver trigger I’ve ever pulled.
The larger gun’s factory trigger is good as well and no problem whatsoever to run smoothly and accurately DA.
Both guns are accurate and produce beautiful, tight groups with both Remington UMC and Inceptor ARX ammunition. Yes, Pythons eat frangibles like candy.
These are the kind of awesome guns you want in your collection. They aren’t exactly safe queens but I wouldn’t use them as an EDC, either.
The author, picture left, and the owner of the two Pythons carrying the guns in custom holsters
Run your Pythons, just do it carefully.
By The Numbers
Reliability: 5/5
This isn’t because they’re revolvers it’s because they’re Pythons. I’ve had revolvers fail. But Colt Pythons are the gold standard and seem to run beautifully. No reliability issues.
Ergonomics: 5/5
This one is, as usual, subjective. It depends on your hands, your grip, and your personal preferences.
To my hands, the Python frames are extremely comfortable. I love the angle of the grip, the reach to the trigger, and how easy manipulating the cylinder release is…no complaints whatsoever.
Accuracy: 4/5
Okay, so this one depends more on your ability to use a double-action trigger. It also depends on which model you have because barrel length matters.
That said, the Pythons I’ve been lucky enough to run have all been accurate guns and many are definitely precise. Learn to run a double-action trigger and you’ll be getting gorgeous groups with a Python in no time.
Customization: 0/5
No. So much no. You don’t customize a Python. Maybe you replace the grips – while storing the original grips in a safe location – and perhaps you have professional trigger work done.
But these are not guns you take apart or Cerakote or otherwise muck with. Leave it alone. It’s a Python.
Value: 4/5
I only knocked a number off because the price keeps going up on these and once you get your hands on one you’re afraid to shoot it much. Thanks to
The Walking Dead these went from firearms aficionados collectibles to the guns every zombie geek and TWB fanboy was after – and hey, I count myself as a zombie geek, but I’m also a gun lover – and prices skyrocketed. If you can afford one, get one.
Ricks Gun Walking Dead
Just make sure it is an original because there are knock-offs out there. These are gorgeous pistols and I admit I would do just about anything to own one myself.
Overall: 4.5/5
Found one?
Buy it.
Will We See The Python Again?
Here’s the deal. Even if Colt were to bring back the Python as they do seem to be re-launching their various snake-themed models, it would not be the same.
The stunning knowledge and precise talents of the original Master gunsmiths like Al De John is what made the original Colt Pythons works of art and that cannot be replicated.
Loving some Colt Python trigger time.
Most likely new run Pythons would be assembly-line produced and probably cool little guns but not even close to the originals. If you really want one, save your pennies and buy one as soon as you find a legit, good quality model.
This gun counts as an investment rather than just a plastic fantastic pistol you buy for plinking – or even for EDC.
The Colt Python is a thing of beauty, but that beauty cannot be copied or renewed. Stick with the originals. You’ll be glad you did.
Will the Python return to new production? Should it? Let us know in the comments! Need a .357 Revolver in your life? Take a look at the Best .357 Magnum Revolvers!
The world of body armor is confusing…with misinformation abound and tons of technical stuff.
But we’ve got you covered.
The Pew Pew Tactical team and network has been wearing all different types of armor for years. And we’re bulking up on our actual testing reviews too.
Level 3A Soft Armor with 9mm & .357
And before we run through our recommendations…we’ll walk you through the important technical aspects so you can choose the best armor for your end-use and budget.
Ready? Let’s go!
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Why Do I Need Body Armor?
Even if you don’t work in a vocation that requires protection from flying lead, there’s still plenty of reasons to want a set of body armor–and not too many of them involve a nuclear fallout-riddled wasteland.
Not gonna lie–we kind of want power armor to be a thing.
Here are a few reasons civilians buy body armor:
Home Defense: Throw on your armor over your jammies before you head downstairs.
EDC/Active Shooters: Choosing armor to carry in your backpack or keeping it in your office or vehicle can offer peace of mind.
Sheltering in Place: If things go sideways, your home is a good place to take shelter, so why not have armor on hand?
Patrolling/Scouting: After SHTF, what do you do if you need to go out for food, supplies, or safety?
Range Safety: Okay, so hopefully you won’t need armor at the range, but training in it can prepare you for when you do need it. It also can protect you during dynamic shooting drills, when accidental discharges or falls are more likely.
Competition: A little more safety never hurt…and now there’s some competitions that require armor plates!
Now…let’s squash some misconceptions on body armor legality.
Body Armor Laws in the U.S.
There’s a myth that it’s illegal for civilians to own body armor, and it certainly seems true when you’re shopping around.
Some companies will only sell to you with the proper documentation indicating your status as an LEO or military member.
Truth is–all civilians in the U.S., with the exception of felons, can legally own body armor.
Body armor has come a very long way.
There may be some local regulations, such as Connecticut’s law requiring in-person purchases.
Some states and cities are trying to ban body armor, but so far, none of these motions have actually become law. But as always…check with your local laws since these things change quickly.
Is Body Armor Actually “Bulletproof?”
In short–no.
They’re bullet-resistant, meaning that they increase the rates of survival, decrease the severity of injuries that occur, and give you a better chance.
You’re Not Wonder Woman.
All body armor can be defeated–it may just be a matter of what is shooting at it, or how many times you’re hit. Don’t be fooled into thinking body armor makes you invincible.
Types of Body Armor
There’s a staggering variety of body armor types and rating codes, so don’t feel bad if you’re left scratching your head.
Spartan Armor Assortment
We’re going to break down the details a bit for you.
Soft Ballistic Armor vs. Hard Ballistic Armor
One of the first categories you’ll discover is soft vs. hard armor.
Soft armor is generally what is worn by police officers and anyone looking for a more comfortable, but less protective armor option.
It’s made out of a flexible, incredibly strong woven net fabric (like Kevlar) that catches the bullet and absorbs the energy across the entire vest.
Soft Armor Insert, Flexing
This type of armor is commonly found in all-in-one vests, but also can be found in inserts that can be added to bags or behind stronger plates.
Soft armor can protect against many pistol calibers, as well as other threats like knives and debris.
Hard armor is much harder to conceal, but it offers far more protection. It is constructed from either steel plates, ceramic composite, or ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (plastic).
Soft vs Hard Armor
Generally, hard armor plates are worn in a plate carrier, a vest that fits over your other clothing.
Invictus Plate Carrier, Front
Hard armor plates have a variety of ratings, but the strongest can stop some pretty serious rifle rounds.
All-in-One Plates vs. Multi-Piece Armor
Some armors require additional pieces to be included, like soft ballistic plates, in order to offer the full protection.
Multi-piece kits can be confusing to figure out, but the key here is looking for “ICW” in the rating. That stands for In Conjunction With, and means you’re going to need another part to get that rating.
The label instructs users to pair these plates with other armor, SKDTac
This system is pretty much just a hold-over from military procurement needs, so only one part needed to be swapped out instead of a whole kit.
We recommend that most new buyers start with what is called stand-alone armor, or armor that is rated as-is, without additional add-ons needed.
Covert vs. Combat Plates
The final distinction you should know is the difference between covert and combat armor. Covert armor is designed to be worn underneath your clothing. It may still “print,” or leave a visible outline, but it is much more subtle than a tactical plate carrier.
US Armor, Covert
Combat armor is what many people think of when they think about body armor–these armor systems show up on our troops, in movies, in video games, and on TV. Heavy armored plates slide into special pockets on tactical vests, which are worn over your clothing.
How is Body Armor Rated?
Body armor ratings are yet another confusing aspect of shopping for armor.
These standardized ratings, however, are set by the Department of Justice’s National Institute of Justice, based on tiers of threats.
NIJ Armor Protection Levels, Justnet.org
Even with these ratings, it’s important to keep in mind that a combination of factors can affect the effectiveness of a vest. Bullet material, bullet mass, velocity, barrel length, and even shady marketing tactics all can mean that your armor doesn’t stand up to the test.
Our recommendation is to check the manufacturer in the NIJ’s database (slow load) of tested companies and body armor models. All of our choices down below are already vetted!
The body armor industry has stepped up with their own III+ rating, which falls somewhere between the to NIJ Level III and Level IV ratings. Just know that this rating isn’t made by the NIJ and it can differ between companies.
Here’s one example:
NIJ Ballistic Threat Level Chart for Body Armor, AR500 Armor
What is Body Armor Made Of?
We talked a little bit about what armor was made of above, but we wanted to take a deeper dive into what hard armor is made of, specifically. There are a few varieties out there, each with its pros and cons.
AR500 Steel Plate Armor
Armor made from material such as AR500 steel is the most affordable hard armor on the market at around $70-100 a plate (you’ll want a front and back).
But it’s also the heaviest at 8+ pounds each plate normally.
It’s seriously durable since most range targets are constructed out of AR500 and can also can maintain its integrity for years if properly stored.
Level 3 with M80 (7.62×51) Hits
It can stop almost all handgun rounds and most non-armor piercing rifle rounds. But one threat to keep in mind are very high-velocity rounds such as the 5.56 M193 which can still zip on through Level 3 armor.
It’s a small hole…but it went right on through…
Level 3, M855 & M193
Another thing to consider is spalling, or the frag that flies off from a hit.
Ouch
Even if the round doesn’t penetrate your armor…you’re going to have a bad day if sharp metal hits your throat and face.
Paxcon Spalling
Enter Paxcon, or any other kind of surface spray for AR500 based armor. It helps keep in the Paxcon…but we’ve found you want the build-up layer for it to be truly effective.
Paxcon Build-Up Coat
Ceramic Armor
If money is no option, ceramic armor can stop some pretty extreme bullets, like the fast M193 and M2AP (30.06 armor-piercing).
30.06 M2AP in Garand Clip
The trade-off, however, is that this is the most expensive at $200+, most bulky option in terms of thickness–but it is lighter and is normally Level IV.
Level 4, M2AP
Ceramic armor isn’t the most durable…so if you drop it or fall on something while wearing it…you will likely have to replace it.
It’s also mostly rated for a single hit or multi-hits not in the same area.
Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene Plastic (UHMWPE)
Plastic may not seem the most protective, but it falls somewhere between ceramic and steel on factors like cost and durability. UHMWPE plastic is super light at around 3 pounds a plate–it even can float on water.
Spartan Armor Assortment, UHMWPE in Middle
Common rounds, like the M855 green tip, will punch through plastic, but it offers protection from pretty much all pistol calibers. It stands up to repeated shots, but only about as well as ceramic.
How to Fit Body Armor
Obviously, the better fitting your armor is, the more comfortable it will be and then better protection it will offer.
Too large or too small plates may not cover you properly, and poorly cut shapes can restrict your movement or leave uncomfortable pressure points.
Here’s what to look at when it comes to choosing the right size of armor.
Sizing
There isn’t really an industry standard when it comes to sizing plates, and wrong-sized plates usually can’t be returned for safety reasons, so you want to get it right the first time.
10” by 12” is a common armor plate size, as is 8” by 10”. You can find other sizes, as well, but these are the easiest. Pay attention to the manufacturer’s sizing charts, and get a little help measuring yourself if you need it.
If you want to drop a little extra, US Armor offers custom-fitted armor sets!
Body Armor Anatomy, sixty-six.org
You want to be sure that the armor plate touches your sternal notch (where your collar bones meet) and extend to the bottom of your rib cage. The point of armor is to protect your heart and lungs, not your guts.
You’ll also want the width to cover your nipples.
It’s going to look a lot higher than you think.
Position of Body Armor Plates
Cuts & Shapes
Most manufacturers produce armor in just a handful of shapes, but you’ll choose depending on the type of coverage you’re looking for and your body’s unique shape and motions.
These shapes are:
Rectangular: Good for back protection or full coverage when you don’t need a lot of mobility.
SAPI: Rectangular, but the top corners are clipped down to allow for better arm movement.
Shooter: Similar to the SAPI, but the corners are cut more aggressively down. May be handed, where one side is shaped differently to accommodate a buttstock for right or left-handed shooters.
Swimmer: Aggressively cut down on all corners, offering the least protection but the most mobility.
Again…it might vary among manufacturers who come up with their own cutesy names.
Different Cuts of Armor (L to R, Advanced LW Shooters Cut, SAPI, Advanced Shooters Cut Left)
Curvature
Curved and flat plates both exist–but each has different uses. Plates can curve from top to bottom, or from your chest to your belly, but they can also curve from side to side, or shoulder to shoulder.
Plate Armor Curve (Top is Level III+, Bottom is Level IV)
Your body is curved, so it’s well worth your comfort to spring for the curved chest plate, even if it’s a few dollars more. Curved plates are contoured to the natural shape of your body, so they often have the best fit.
Flat plates can be good for back armor, but you may still find that uncomfortable. Choose what fits your body best. After all, you don’t want to feel miserable wearing it.
Choosing the Right Body Armor
So, now that you have a grasp on all the intricacies of picking out body armor, it’s time to choose the right one.
Ultimately, it comes down to you–your protection needs, your budget, and your body.
We’ve got a few recommendations…starting with soft armor, moving into hard plates, and then ceramic.
Best Body Armor
Best Soft Armor for Civilians
1. AR500 Armor Level 3A Hybrid
We’re big fans of AR500 Armor (yes, confusing name) who is likely the largest player in AR500-based armor. And who we’ve tested ourselves.
These are from well-known companies that sell exclusively to police and military. Sorry, normies!
They are usually custom fit since they are meant to be worn all day long.
2. Safariland Matrix Ballistic Panel
If you were looking for something more concealable than a plate carrier, Safariland should be one of your go-to’s. Trusted by law enforcement, Safariland offers a variety of soft ballistic panels, including the Matrix Ballistic Panel.
This soft armor is rated Level II, which means it protects against stabs and most pistol caliber threats. It’s thin and lightweight so it can be concealed under clothing or uniforms, but offers a significant amount of coverage and protection.
Safariland Matrix Ballistic Panel Layers
It’s less than a quarter of an inch thick, and its ergonomic design makes it much more comfortable to wear on duty or for long periods of time.
Want to know what other brand of body armor is trusted by law enforcement? US Armor creates custom-fitted armor solutions, like their Enforcer 6000 soft body armor.
These ballistic panels cover threat levels at either Level II or Level IIIA, depending on which model you select. The Level II panels are 0.17 inches thick, while the Level IIIA panels are 0.26 inches thick–making this an extraordinarily comfortable covert armor to wear.
Enforcer 6000 Women’s Cut
US Armor also uses Outlast Fabric technology, which helps keep the wearer cool and dissipates heat handily.
While US Armor does offer standard sizing, they’re best known for their custom fittings so your armor can be tailor-made to fit your form.
The downside is–custom-fitted armor requires a bit more work, a bit more time, and, of course, a bit more money as well.
We’ve tested all of AR500 Armor’s different steel armor…and our favorite (and what we wear most of the time) is their Level III+ Lightweight Steel Body Armor.
As we mentioned, Level III+ isn’t an NIJ rating, so pay attention to the details. AR500 uses independent testing and is very clear about what their armor can and cannot handle.
Level III+ takes care of the zippy M193 5.56 rounds (which are standard NATO rounds).
Level 3+ Lightweight, M855 & M193
Plus…it’s much more lightweight and thinner than their regular III+ counterpart.
Lightweight III+ vs Regular III+
We’d also recommend going with their curve for comfort and build-up layer of Paxcon to mitigate spalling.
What’s your take on the AR500 Armor Level III+ Lightweight?
Readers' Ratings
5/5 (5)
Your Rating?
6. Spartan Armor Level III+
Another big player in the AR500-based steel armor space is Spartan Armor.
Their plates look better and they have more movement-inducing cuts compared to AR500 Armor.
Spartan Armor, Swimmers Cut
They also use a nicer feeling/looking coating comparatively and a rubbery material on the back…if that matters.
Spartan Armor, Shooters Cut, Back
Again, we’d go with their Level III+ plates for proper rifle protection.
They are NIJ certified and we’ll be bringing their plates out to the desert soon for our own testing!
Desert Armor Testing
We recommend upgrading to the Full Coat Frag Mitigation Coating for additional protection from shrapnel. It will increase the weight of your plates a bit, but will protect you from spalling.
If you want ultra-light protection that still will defend you against rifle-rated threats, check out Spartan Armor Elaphros Lightweight Level III UHMWPE body armor.
An assortment of Spartan Armor plates, with Elaphros in the center.
These plates were designed for operators who needed maximum maneuverability but still wanted great protection at an extended distance. They’re also stab-resistant for close-quarters protection and are multi-shot rated.
Manufactured using Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE) Hybrid Fibers, these plates weigh in at a mere 3.5 pounds per 10×12 plate.
Spartan offers a 5-year warranty, and these plates have a 5-year shelf life.
Best Ceramic Level IV Body Armor
8. AR500 Level IV Ceramic
If you’re looking for a little bit more serious protection and don’t mind the bulk, AR500’s Level IV Ceramic/PE armor might be what you’re looking for.
Like the AR500 steel plates, you can find their ceramic plates in a variety of cuts and sizes.
AR500 Armor, Level IV Ceramic
You’ll pay a little more per plate than you would for similar steel plates, but you do get an extra level of protection from high-powered rounds.
These plates run about an inch thick, and weighs about 8.3 pounds a plate. They also come with a 10-year manufacturer’s warranty and have a 10-year shelf-life.
Oh yea…and they stopped a couple shots of 30.06 M2AP armor piercing rounds.
Obviously, rifle-rated plates are going to give you a little more protection than pistol rated plates, but you do have to make a trade-off when it comes to bulk and weight, which can be a hard choice to make.
DFNDR’s Level IV Rifle Rated Plates make that choice a little easier. These heavy-duty plates have been tested at muzzle velocity and are multi-hit rated, giving you lots of protection, but they’re also incredibly light.
These armor plates are constructed from Fiber-Lite Laminate, a UHMWPE and resin composite, with a Crystalline Ceramic Strike Face and a Spall-Tek coating to protect you from spalling. They’re on the thicker side, at 1.1 inches thick, but come in a variety of sizes and cuts.
What we liked about DFNDR’s plates is that they came with a state-of-the-art Trauma Mitigation Base, which helps absorb ballistic energy so it doesn’t transfer through the plate and into your body.
DFNDR backs these plates with a 5-year manufacturer’s warranty.
10. Velocity Systems Special Threat Ceramic Plates
When price is no object for the right protection.
Their body armor is top-of-the-line and trusted by law enforcement and military personnel, and it’s for a good reason.
The Velocity Systems Special Threat Ceramic Plates are multi-strike rated and tested against 7.62×39 Mild Steel Core, 7.62×51 M80 Ball, 5.56×45 M855, and 5.56×45 M193, which puts this armor at around a level III+ (though Velocity doesn’t specify).
Velocity Systems Special Threat Ceramic Plates side view
These plates only come in a 10×12 inch traditional cut size, but they’re tripled curved to hug the contour of your body and are 0.60 inches thick. Each plate weighs 6 pounds, which does put them on the heavier–but more protective–end of things.
It can be hard to get ahold of Velocity Systems armor since the company will only sell directly to law enforcement or military, but it can be found at other retailers.
Best Plate Carriers & Trauma Pads
Whether you’re planning to pick up some standalone plates or spring for a set, there’s still plenty of must-have accessories to go with your shiny new armor.
Plate Carriers
We mentioned it a few times above, but all the stand-alone plates that we talked about are worn inside of a plate carrier–a tactical vest with special pockets designed just for your body armor plates.
Spartan Armor Carriers
You can find carriers with velcro and MOLLE so you can attach all your gear to it, and you can also find carriers that can be hidden under your clothing for more subtlety.
Choosing your plate carrier will depend on the type of plates or panels you buy.
You may be able to mix and match brands between your plates and your carrier, but when in doubt–stick with the same brand. Some armor systems work best when all parts are from the same manufacturer.
That being said, let’s look at some of our favorites!
The AR500 Veritas Plate Carrier and armor panels
We’ll start with the AR500 Testudo Gen 2 Plate Carrier, which is sized for AR500’s larger plate offerings. It features a fully adjustable cummerbund and shoulder straps, 3D Mesh technology to increase breathability, and plenty of gear-mounting options.
There’s also the AR500 Veritas Modular Plate Carrier, which is the smaller version of the Testudo. It has all the same great features, it’s just sized for smaller plates and smaller bodies.
Both the Testudo and Veritas carriers are available in coyote, olive drab, multi-cam, and black.
For a super-light option, check out Crye Precision’s AirLite SPC. The entire system weighs just over one pound, so you can cut the weight without sacrificing your protection. The mesh design also offers superior breathability.
Rocking our Crye Precision AirLite SPC and some super-cool biohazard protection.
You can get it in ranger green, multi-cam, black, and coyote.
Finally, if you’re looking for a covert carrier, we’ve got you covered with the Safariland M1 Covert Carrier. Not only is it low-profile and highly durable, but it’s easily washable, which is a big plus for people wearing protection every day.
The anti-microbial, wicking mesh lining will keep you dry and cool all day long for a truly comfortable covert body armor.
It’s available in a variety of colors, including tan, olive drab, navy, black, and white.
Trauma Pads
You may not realize it, but body armor plates are only designed to stop a bullet–not make it comfortable. Body armor absorbs the ballistic energy of a bullet to some extent, but you’re still going to feel pretty dang sore afterward.
Trauma Pad Demonstration
One way of mitigating the soreness is by wearing a trauma pad, like the AR500 Trauma Pad under your armor.
These are non-ballistic pads, which means that they don’t provide additional protection. What they do instead is instantly harden upon impact, increasing the rigid surface area of your armor and helping to decrease the amount of energy transferred from your armor to you.
AR500 offers trauma pads cut to match all of their different plate sizes, so all you have to do is match them to your plates.
Final Considerations
Choosing body armor isn’t something that should be taken lightly. After all, it’s your life you’re entrusting to a few inches of steel, ceramic, or plastic, so you want to feel confident in your decision.
Tru Spec 24/7 Concealed Armor Undershirt
We hope we’ve helped you find some great options, but be sure to do a little research into what threat protection level suits your needs and take time to measure yourself, so you can find the right armor plates.
Did this help? Any other brands we should check out and test in the future? Let us know. All this talk about M193 defeating regular Level III armor? Check out our Best 5.56 Ammo article.
Are you looking for a way to comfortably carry your firearm & can help you quickly switch between a rifle and sidearm?
If so…you need a good ‘ole rifle sling.
VTAC Wide Hybrid Sling
Rifle slings are perfect for ensuring a steady and accurate shot, which is why they’re a favorite among many sharpshooters.
But there’s a bazillion of them out there.
I’ll go over choosing the right material, type of sling, and sling mounting systems. Oh…and, of course, some specific models.
We also have a video going over the benefits of 2-point slings and our favorite ones…
If that helped, please subscribe to our YouTube channel since we’re adding new videos every week!
Choosing the Right Material
Gun slings are typically made from one of two options: leather or nylon.
There is no clear-cut answer when it comes to which sling material is better.
Some people believe that nylon slings are better because they’re not as heavy, while others prefer leather because they feel it gives a slight elastic feel that nylon doesn’t.
I personally go with the nylon slings.
Mossberg M500SP
If you are someone who prefers the traction and style that comes with a leather sling, it’s important to note that they can stretch over the years.
Leather Sling, Levergun Leather Works
Types of Gun Slings
There are three main types of gun slings: single-point, two-point, and three-point slings. Then some more specific ones applicable for sharpshooting.
I’ll give a brief explanation of each type first then list the pros and cons of each type of sling so that you can get an idea of which type suits your specific needs.
The single-point sling receives its name because it uses one connection point to attach to the gun.
Magpul MS4 Sling in Single Point Configuration
As you may have guessed, two-pointslings are named because they are attached to the gun with two connection points.
Vickers Sling by Blue Force Gear
The three-point sling also connects to the front and back of the firearm like its two-point counterpart. However, the three-point sling differs in that it has an additional loop that goes around your torso.
Specter 3 Point Sling
The Ching sling is a special shooting sling that incorporates principles of the “hasty sling” and two-point slings. It requires three connection points and can be used for carrying and aiming.
Ching Sling Attached to a Steyr Scout
The Cuff sling is a shooting sling designed to help marksmen get an accurate shot without the use of a bipod.
The two-point sling is one of the most commonly-used gun slings and sometimes known as a carrying strap.
I’m starting with these since they are my favorite and the most versatile for the AR-15 and other rifles.
VTAC and Vickers Slings
This sling connects to the rear and front of the firearm, on the bottom of the stock. It’s perfect for carrying a long gun over the shoulder during long hunting treks.
Pros
Not only are two-point slings great for carrying your weapon, they can even be used to improve your aim.
M16 with 2 Point Sling
There are three ways to carry a gun using the two-point sling:
American carry – slung over back of the shoulder, muzzle up.
European carry – slung over the front of the shoulder, muzzle up.
African carry – slung over the back of the shoulder, muzzle down.
Some people prefer the African carry because they feel it makes it easier to grab and aim your weapon. The downside to the African carry is that you risk clogging your muzzle with dirt and debris as you walk.
African Carry, Gunsite
Remember when I said it can improve your aim?
Simply loop the sling around your non-dominant arm and use the tension to keep your weapon stable. This is called the “hasty sling” method.
Another type of shooting modification that can be used with the two-point sling is the “loop sling.”
This is achieved by disconnecting the rear portion of the sling and pulling a loop through the adjustment slide. Then, slide your arm through the loop and pull tightly:
This will help stabilize your long gun and provide you with the opportunity to shoot more accurately. This tactic is referred to as the “USGI sling.”
Cons
The downside of the two-point sling is that it can be difficult to retrieve your gun in a situation where time is of the essence.
It’s also a little harder to transition from side to side unless you leave some extra length to free up your neck area.
One common complaint is that it is built for an 8 foot monster. However…that’s because the extra length is set for people wearing armor or using it on a long shotgun.
I follow Kyle Lamb’s advice and use some duct tape to tape off the excess…never know when it might come in handy.
VTAC Extra Length
One thing that sets it apart from other slings is that it feels light but still super strong. Also, there’s two pull tabs you use to adjust the length…one to cinch it and one to let it go.
VTAC Sling Two Pull Tabs
Highly recommend watching this video of Kyle Lamb for install and use. Just disregard the TERRIBLE BEARD of the host.
And also highly recommend going with at least something padded if you’re going to be standing around for a few hours on patrol (or even a class).
VTAC Wide Pad
The VTAC’s padding is thin but makes a world of difference.
The length is also more manageable…no duct tape needed but you might not be able to put it on very long shotguns (or if you’re huge and/or wearing a lot of gear).
The padding is also a little thicker than the VTAC.
Vickers Padded Sling
But the nylon of the sling itself feels stiffer and is definitely thicker. And given the choice between padded and not padded versions…definitely go with padded.
The beauty of the single-point sling is that it always sits directly in front of you (and most likely pointing in a safe direction down).
This makes it ideal for situations where you need to go quickly hands-free, but also must have the ability to quickly grab your weapon at a moment’s notice.
Another benefit of using the single-point sling is that it allows you to perform a wide-range of movement such as transitions due to a barrier.
Additionally, your gun doesn’t have to be in front of you with a single-point sling. You can also wear it in a way that keeps your weapon at your side or on your back. However, those options aren’t ideal for scenarios where you need quick access to your gun.
Cons
Despite the convenience and easy accessibility that comes with single-point slings, they aren’t without their drawbacks.
For starters, single-point slings provide little shooting support…your aim with a single-point sling won’t be much better than it would be with no sling at all.
Another con of the single-point sling is your gun will sway a lot when you’re not holding it.
For some people, moving hands-free with a single-point sling can be especially annoying because they constantly get knocked in the groin or knees with their gun.
Here’s an example of a loose two point sling but you can imagine it with merely one.
Once you find the proper tightness adjustment for your body, your single-point sling shouldn’t move as much. And overall, it’s a great tactical piece of anyone who’s not in situations that require a lot of running.
3. Magpul MS4
If you’re looking for a single-point sling that’s comfortable, durable, and easy to adjust, try the Magpul MS4 Sling ($56).
Its 1.25” wide nylon material is strong enough to resist wear-and-tear from constant use but soft enough to prevent chaffing and discomfort.
Additionally, it can be converted to a two-point sling and has quick disconnect features.
Three Point Slings
When it comes to the three-point sling, I find that people either love it or hate it.
Three Point Slings by Specter
Pros
Overall, I think it’s a good sling that keeps your gun within reach, just like its single-point counterpart.
In addition, the three-point sling has more control than the single-point sling when you’re moving hands-free. That means you don’t have to worry about having your gun bang up your shin or groin area as you move.
Have a look at this video to see how the three-point sling works:
The biggest benefit of the three-point sling is that you can easily transition from a rifle to a sidearm without having to fumble between guns.
Cons
However, the three-point sling doesn’t come without its own set of cons. Some shooters complain that three-point slings tend to get caught on bolt release mechanisms and block ejection ports of rifles.
Also, this…
A Major Reason Why Not to Use a 3-Point Sling, source InRangeTV
In case you’re wondering…yes that rifle was loaded…and no this was not a drill/test/skit. This is, in all its glory, the three-point sling in the field.
4. Specter Three Point Sling
When it comes to three-point slings, comfort is key.
You don’t want to have something strapped to your body that feels excessively tight or restricts your movement more than it should. Many people prefer Specter Three Point Slings ($30) because they’re less likely to cause chafing or affect the wearer’s range of motion.
Along with tactical straps designed to help you carry your long gun in a variety of ways, there are also different types of shooting slings for your long gun.
5. Ching Sling
It is made up of two straps, a standard two-point sling and an additional smaller strap connected to the gun’s center stud.
Think of the Ching sling as a two-point sling that was optimized for the “hasty sling” method of shooting.
When carrying a rifle with the Ching sling, the small strap can be slid up and out of the way. When it comes time to shoot, simply loop your arm through the first loop, between the first and center studs, to get a steadier aim.
Looping Up with Ching Sling
Andy’s Leather Ching Sling ($50) is a great version of this iconic sling that’s easy to adjust and doesn’t cause discomfort.
Cuff sling variations are a favorite among sharpshooters because they allow you to get a stable and accurate shot without the use of a bipod. They’re easier to set up than loop sling methods like the “USGI sling” and are an excellent way to improve your aim.
Once you’ve got the sling, you’ve got to make sure you can attach it to your rifle.
Almost all of the slings mentioned will hook into your butt stock without any additional hardware…whether into the slits or using a QD (quick disconnect) mount.
Buttstock Sling Attachment
If you don’t have that…or like having a connection on your end place…check out the BCM QD End Plate (perfect for single point slings).
You might need something for your handguard if it doesn’t already come with QD holes…however I found the factory ones are either too forward (gets in the way of lights) or too rear (too short for slinging on your back).
In that case you’ll need something like a Troy Rail Mount ($33).
However, my current favorite is the Magpul RSA QD ($28) since it is adjustable and keeps the sling on one specific side. My loadout below gives me space to activate my light.
Magpul RSA QD
It also has anti-rotation so your sling doesn’t get jumbled up
And…here are some tips that can improve your experience:
When using a leather shooting strap, mark the notch that is the most comfortable for you. That way, you don’t lose that perfect adjustment point.
Don’t over-tighten your sling when using a “cuff” or “loop sling.” If you can’t slip two or three fingers in the cuff, it’s too tight.
Practice makes perfect, especially when wearing a new sling. Practice raising your gun quickly into firing position until you feel comfortable with your sling.
Remember, a good gun sling can work wonders by increasing your accuracy or helping quickly switch between your long gun and sidearm. Check out more of our essential gear and guns such as Best Weapon Lights or Best Scopes/Optics.
What sling did you end up getting? How do you like it? Let me know in the comments!
I’ll start by saying this – I absolutely abhor items that look tactical.
The features that come with “tactical” gear are often really useful in daily life, even if you’re not kicking in doors.
But most of us still don’t want to look like we just stepped off a SWAT van.
Like a clown car but with more firepower!
Over the past few years, it seems as if the entire philosophy behind being ‘low profile’ has itself become a fashion statement – to the point that a polo shirt, goatee and khaki pants may as well be a uniform for gun folks.
Us Testing the AMP12
Thankfully, not everyone has fallen for the trend. 5.11 has a great line up in store for us that are both highly functional and truly “low-profile”.
These are just the start of what they sent us to review, but for right now we’ll take a look at the LV10 Sling Pack, AMP12, and AMP72 Backpacks!
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LV10 Sling Pack 13L
With that out of the way, I absolutely appreciate the fact that companies like 5.11 are now producing items that offer all of the functionality and innovation you’d expect out of modern tactical soft goods, but without anything that overtly screams hi hello, there is a good chance that I am armed.
Average person getting ready to go get the mail, 2019 colorized
No conspicuous molle webbing, no huge swaths of Velcro, and discrete colors like this ‘Nightwatch’ blue are basically exactly what I want out of my packs, no matter what I might be doing with them.
I typically do most of my running in shorts with no pockets, but don’t generally feel super comfortable leaving my wallet or phone in the car with my keys tucked inside the gas tank door – especially for longer runs.
The sling pack offers a nice and comfy way to carry my essential personal items when I’m out for a longer run in a low-profile package that (mostly) stays put and doesn’t chafe or wear like other packs in the same category have the tendency of doing.
Open wide
Although the whole point of the bag is conceivably a minimalist, go fast setup – it’s actually capable of storing quite a lot given it’s deceptively small size!
Obviously, you wouldn’t necessarily want to overload the Sling Pack, as a lot of it’s carrying capacity comes in the form of either free-floating space, or dividers/organizers sewn into the internal walls of the pack.
The main storage compartment is equipped with a full molle panel with additional velcro that’s sewn on top of the molle loops – allowing you to configure the pack as you’d like assuming you’re an average gearwhore with a surplus of random Cordura like us.
I personally quite enjoy the newer trend of velcro-based organizers, and my sling pack is shown here with an assortment of stick-on Maxpedition Advanced Gear Research velcro loops for securing both my Glock, a few spare magazines, and a CAT tourniquet.
Gat? Check. Ammo? Check. CAT? Check.
Although as mentioned, I primarily use this as a casual day / trail running pack, for demonstrative purposes I’ve loaded the sling pack up with a very basic set of bug out / bad day items
Including my G17, 4 magazines, 2 AR-15 mags, a Leatherman multitool, SOG Twitch XL, CAT TQ, a couple of phone chargers, a flashlight, PIG Alpha gloves, etc.
This is maybe as heavy as I’d load up the sling pack for anything outside of a very bad emergency, but as shown, there’s still plenty of room for other items if you want something small and convenient to take to the range with you or need to carry more stuff as the situation dictates.
Enough firepower to fend off at least a few feral hogs
Interestingly enough, the internal pockets sewn into one of the divider walls doesn’t appear to be large enough to accommodate double-stacked pistol magazines outside of one pocket.
I’m assuming these are largely meant more for knives, multitools, pens, etc. There’s one pocket that fits an AR mag perfectly, however.
There’s an external zipper pocket lined with a very soft, fleece-like material. Generally, I’ve been using that to store any sort of eyewear I might have on my person without the fear of scratching my expensive ass Oakley lenses up.
A small button located on one side of the Sling Pack can be undone and expanded to reveal a flap that works great for water bottle storage.
Water and my reflection, SURPRISE!
I’m sort of a hobo and constantly wash and re-use 1.5L bottles of Smart Water, and am pleased that they fit snugly and securely without being too much of a hassle to access.
The sling pack includes dual carry handles on both the top and side of the bag, allowing you to carry it like a briefcase if you’re so inclined. Additionally, a zipper that runs the perimeter of the pack just underneath the closed-cell foam unzips to reveal even more velcro-able real estate.
5.11 has sewn their own nylon strap directly into the center of the velcro material, allowing you to attach your handgun as shown.
Sling Bag Gat Strap
There are also velcro tabs sewn into the inside of the pocket that’ll attach to corresponding velcro outside, allowing you to position your zippers in the correct location for quick access in the event you’re using the sling pack to carry a firearm.
The sling is quite beefy, and while I’ve seen some complaints about the design online, I personally quite enjoy it. The sling utilizes a locking mechanism, not unlike those found on common two-point slings, allowing you to throw the ‘lever’ and quickly adjust the tightness of the main shoulder strap.
Perhaps the only design element I don’t quite enjoy is the small sternum strap that rides from your low right side up to the center of the shoulder strap, meant to provide additional stability while moving vigorously.
Sternum Strap in action
While a good idea, in theory, this strap is secured to the body of the sling bag only by a small plastic buckle that’s open in the back – presumably to allow you to ditch it if you’d like, but the open design of the buckle means it’s also prone to slip out of the nylon loop it secures too with too much movement.
Sternum Strap and it’s open buckle…
Granted, I’m using what is basically a low profile EDC pack to go do cardio, and perhaps this is not the level of physical activity the bag is designed for, but it is something to be aware of.
The last thing you’d want while moving quickly in an emergency is to have to fuss with straps coming undone and making your bag wobbly.
Overall, however, this has become one of my absolute favorite pieces of daily use gear! The entire Sling Pack is incredibly well thought out and makes the absolute most of all available space both within and without.
Sling Bag Overall Load
The fact that I can take this out in public with whatever items I might need for that day, be they tactical or not, and not worry about getting weird glances for overtly aggressive or militaristic design is fantastic.
The modular configurability of the storage spaces means you’ve got a neat little pack that can adapt to whatever task you might have at hand.
If staying truly low profile without looking like a total dork is something you find yourself concerned about, I can’t recommend checking out the 5.11 Sling Pack 13L enough!
5.11 AMP12 25L
5.11’s AMP or ‘All Mission Pack’ series of backpacks aims to provide adaptable bags that can scale up or down to fit whatever tasks you might need to use them for, quickly and at a moment’s notice.
AMP12 In the Desert
The AMP12 is specifically meant for ~12-hour sustainment, giving you 25L of storage that allows you to fight/survive/exist out of the bag as fits. (72 hours and 40-liters out of the larger model)
The AMP12 is another example of the sleek, low profile design decisions I’ve come to love from 5.11. The Tungsten color doesn’t draw attention, and the bag looks closer to something you’d see from a skate shop rather than a tactical gear manufacturer.
AMP12 Overall
Yet, it retains an enormous amount of functional modularity!
Most notably, the AMP12 includes 5.11’s unique HEXGRID platform on the rear of the bag. The HEXGRID is molle compatible and allows the user to mount existing molle pouches at non-standard angles.
If you’re in a situation where you might need to carry extra mags, for example, mounting them at closer to a 45-degree angle via the HEXGRID might make more sense if you need to sling the bag around in front of you to reload.
AMP12 Hex Grid Mags
Obviously, that’s a pretty extreme example, but the system itself is pretty neat! It’s also fully removable, and ditching it will allow you to either load thet velcro panel up with whatever patches your goofy ass wants to be a walking billboard for, or alternatively, affix 5.11’s “Gear Set” placard.
The Gear Set placard gives you an additional 2 AR15 magazine pouches and a few more zippered pouches for even more small-item storage.
The AMP12 has become my go-to range bag and overnight pack, and I love that it fills both tacticool and every-day life needs without changing much at all.
Lock and load
The bag’s main storage compartment is velcro attachment compatible and will work with either 5.11’s own Gear Set modules or various other velcro-based dividers and organizers.
Here I’ve got my G17 stored with a Maxpedition Universal Pistol Wrap, and a Spiritus Systems Microfight rig carrying a few AR mags and some tools.
The internal storage space is large enough to stash a low profile plate carrier setup too, if that’s your thing.
Armor carried in the AMP12
The reverse side of the main compartment is filled with several different mesh zipper bags full of elastic loops for organizing pens, chem lights, etc.
The large flap right above the Hex Grid system opens up to reveal a spacious compartment meant to stow a handgun and includes a small loop of webbing to attach a holster if necessary.
AMP12 CCW pocket
Just above the CCW pocket is a second large storage space that runs the length of the entire pack, and features a small, fleece-lined sleeve for eyewear.
The inner-most compartment is padded on in the inside and features a rigid polymer insert on the other, ensuring that laptops or sensitive electronics fit in the space are protected from bumps and knocks while on your person.
AMP12 Laptop Case
The molded back panel contours to my frame quite nicely, and the shoulder strap padding is more than adequate.
As someone who’s owned a ton of tactical oriented backpacks over my lifetime, it’s really refreshing to see a company continue to innovate and streamline the designs of their products continually based on end-user feedback.
The amount of thought present in each stitch and seam is incredibly evident, especially when compared to older 3 day packs that are essentially just 3 bags sewn together and little else.
While I certainly don’t run the AMP12 anywhere near the limits it’s been designed to withstand, it’s quite nice to be able to swap from shooting, to hiking, to an overnight out of town trip with ease – all while not worrying about having a bunch of overtly gun-related things dangling off my pack.
If you’re trying to cut down on the amount of tactical nylon you own, we’d bet money that the AMP12 can replace a few different smaller packs in your collection, and provide fast, intuitive modularity that said packs won’t.
The bombproof construction and ability to swap Gear Set backpanels on the fly makes this a solid two thumbs up from us.
5.11 AMP72 40L
The AMP 72 includes all of the features of the AMP12 listed above, but with almost double the internal storage capacity if you need to work out of the bag for a much longer period of time.
Considering I’m not a first responder of any sort, for my dorky ass lifestyle, this translates into being the perfect travel bag!
There are a few minimal design differences in pouch placement and style in the AMP72, and I’ll cover them briefly here.
There’s an additional small storage pouch directly underneath the HEXGRID panel on the rear of the pack, which I found perfect for stashing my Arcteryx jacket when not needed.
AMP72 Zipper Pouch Jacket
You’ve still got the large CCW pocket above the HEXGRID panel, and the soft, fleece-lined eyewear pouch now sits directly above it.
As expected, the interior main compartment is much larger on the AMP72 – holding ‘approximately 762 .50 BMG rounds’ as 5.11’s own tag helpfully points out.
The entire interior is velcro compatible, and the same dividers and accessories I used in the AMP12 work great in here as well.
5.11 did the math
There are two sleeves on the inside of the main compartment’s outer walls, and each will fit a 1.5L water bottle perfectly. As mentioned in my review of the 5.11 Sling Bag, I wash and re-use 1.5L bottles of Smart Water pretty frequently, and enjoy that the bottles are tall enough to grab without sinking down into the pouch like a Nalgene would.
The reverse flap of the interior panel has two large mesh bags – oriented both horizontally and vertically – and includes zippers on either end to ensure quick access, no matter what angle you’re using the bag from.
AMP72 Mesh Organizer
The larger, vertical mesh bag is filled with elastic keepers and a small plastic hook for organizing your various bits and bobs, chemlights, medical supplies, etc.
Perhaps the biggest functional difference for me is the inclusion of a large, briefcase-style zipper pouch between the thermal molded back panel and the main compartment.
AMP72 Briefcase Handle
The entire bag zips in half and folds outwards like a taco, and includes an accompanying carry handle that allows you to hoist the bag much more like a traditional piece of luggage than a backpack.
Working for Pew Pew Tactical means a good amount of travel, and I absolutely love that this pack fits my oversized MSI work laptop in a compartment that’s both padded and easily accessible for traveling through TSA security checkpoints at airports.
Dusty laptop, the true sight of a gun blogger
Perhaps it’s just me, but having to juggle multiple bags that may need to be opened for electronics inspection while trying to take your shoes on and off and make sure you’ve got your wallet and boarding pass in tow when there’s a crowd of other folks behind you waiting to get their luggage is perhaps one of the most stressful parts of traveling
Although this is not quite what the bag was designed for, I appreciate that the AMP72 streamlines that entire process.
AMP72 with lots of storage!
Helpfully, it also fits perfectly into the overhead storage bin on your standard 747-ish aircraft. Again, another huge plus for me, personally.
Lastly, the AMP72 includes plastic loops on the bottom side of the bag that interface with the normal cinch-down straps, allowing you to secure and compress the entire pack smartly when you need to, but affording you the ability to only tighten down the ‘upper’ portions of the bag if necessary.
It’s this attention to detail and inclusion of small, quality of life-improving design choices that in my opinion set 5.11 a head above other competitors in the current tactical backpack market.
Parting Shots
If you’re looking for a pack that interfaces with a dynamic lifestyle that calls for wearing many different hats at any given time, the 5.11 AMP series has my full recommendation.
Bearded Man Overlooking Vista in Desert
The versatility and modularity of the packs is not something I’ve seen elsewhere, and the ability to switch seamlessly from travel, to go-bag, to a CCW / trauma platform without drawing particular attention is going to be invaluable for folks whom discretion matters most.
Check them out, and I guarantee you won’t be disappointed!
Do you use low-profile tactical gear for EDC? Let us know what in the comments! For more awesome gear, take a look at the Best Range Bags!
The M1 Garand tends to get most of the American WWII glory, but it’s not the only cool firearm from the ’40s!
If you’re looking to expand your gun collection or maybe add a rifle that has significance to American warfighters, you should take a look at the M1 Carbine.
A new production rifle using modern ammo has breathed new life into this classic firearm. The Auto-Ordnance M1 Carbine chambered in the venerable .30 Carbine.
M1 Carbine and Ammo
I will be going over the history of the old workhorse, what kind of quality to expect from Auto-Ordnance, and my time using it on a hog and turkey hunt down in Texas.
With the newer production Hornady ammunition, it is safe to say this old rifle still has a place!
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Proven in Combat
The M1 Carbine saw initial service during WWII in 1942. It was built as a lightweight rifle to be used as a short-range carbine within 300 meters.
This rifle was never meant to be a full-blown battle rifle, which was somewhat of a change in military doctrine for a fighting rifle.
M1 Carbine in combat during WWII in the Pacific theatre. *Courtesy of US Militaria Forum
The tiny carbine saw service throughout WWII, Korea, and even into the Vietnam Conflict. The rifle was especially liked by troops that weren’t on the front lines.
With its 18” barrel, and shorter designed action, the M1 Carbine and later versions of the M2 and M3 were favored for their handiness.
Between the short-stroke piston operation, and non-corrosive primers used in its ammunition, the M1 Carbine was a very reliable semi-automatic, magazine-fed weapon.
While it was loved by troops “in the rear with the gear”, GIs that were engaging the enemy in the Pacific and European theatres had their gripes.
Before “tacticool” was a thing, GIs used select-fire M2 Carbines with early night vision devices
Although the M1 was praised for its accuracy, the round nose 110-grain projectile typically passed through the enemy without incapacitating or immobilizing them.
By design, it was meant to bridge the gap between the M1 Garand in .30-06 and the M1 Thompson sub-machine gun in .45 ACP, but FMJs at that speed did not prove to effectively stop the enemy.
Forgotten Weapons along with Ken Hackathorn has an outstanding video talking about the M1 Carbine, its role in WWII, and the exact limitations of the rifle in combat!
Fast Forward to Today
Today you can still buy surplus M1 Carbines, but the prices of those rifles are usually well over $1,000 and they can show their wear.
A quick search on GunBroker.com will show that WWII M1 Carbines can sell for over $4,000 in great condition. Enter Auto-Ordnance.
On mesquite and in the sun, God Bless the Lonestar State
If you want a new production M1 Carbine, built to original GI specs, then look no further than Auto-Ordnance. The rifle’s parkerized steel receivers, walnut stock, and original iron sights are a perfect reproduction from the original design.
These weapons are currently produced in Worcester, MA at the AO facility. They also have a line of 1927A-1 “Tommy” guns, 1911’s, as well as multiple models of the M1 Carbine including a Para-Trooper model with a folding stock.
Battle scars from rough handling while in Texas, and hunting pigs from the truck.
The T&E firearm sent to me was the standard AOM130, with a 15-round magazine. Quality of the rifle was excellent with parkerizing on all the steel components. The walnut stock wasn’t amazing in finish, but it looks excellent overall.
Keep in mind though that the wood easily scratches which is my only gripe with handling the weapon.
On the Range
While testing the AO M1 Carbine I experienced no malfunctions or failure to feeds through nearly 500 rounds of testing.
During my time with it, I did not clean it and only applied lubrication to the receivers and the action. The best ammunition that ran through the weapon was hands down the Hornady Critical Defense 110-grain loads.
Hornady has been and still is a great choice for hunting or match ammo
In my years of shooting, one thing generally remains the same. Hornady ammunition tends to be high quality and tends to be some of the best ammunition ran through any gun I have owned or used.
They also offer ammunition in uncommon cartridges, and the M1 Carbine is no different. For a hunting or self-defense load in .30 Carbine, the only answer is Hornady.
My best 5 shot group at 100 yards measured in at 2.1 MOA, which could do even better with a magnified optic. Being limited to iron sights only for this carbine, I moved in closer at 50 yards.
My best 5 shot group at 50 yards shrunk to 1.41 MOA and point of impact was 1.8” right and .59” low. At 100 yards, typically impacts were nearly 5” low.
Authors best 5-shot, 50-yard group with Hornady Critical Defense.
The rear sight is drift adjustable on this model from AO, but I did not have the proper tool for adjustment.
Assuming I wouldn’t stretch too much further than 50 yards on my hunt in Texas, a slightly right point of impact was manageable, and I kept it in mind.
Out of the box accuracy though was impressive, and it fed typical 110-grain ball ammo like Magtech 110-grain FMJs flawlessly.
Hogs Went AWOL
While hunting hogs in Texas, it’s legal to shoot them from a moving truck while on private land. Keeping a weapon short and effective to shoot out of a moving truck is important.
I have had great success with AR-15s in the past, but I wanted to try something different this time.
Author on a previous hunt using an AR-15 for hog eradication
Benjamin, TX got a lot of rain this spring. Almost too much. While it’s great for farmers and domesticated or wild animals, it makes hunting hogs in wheat fields practically impossible.
Due to the rain, this year the wheat fields measured above the hood of the truck. I didn’t let that stop me using the AO M1 Carbine in a hunting role though!
Tagging out, the author was able to drop these Rios in short order.
The turkey hunting down in Texas for Rio Gobblers is fantastic. With the purchase of a hunting license, hunters are permitted to shoot up to 4 Rio gobblers and rifles of all types are allowed. It was time to drop a long beard with a weapon that my fellow Devil Dogs used in the Pacific.
On my second day during the morning, I ended up having 2 Gobblers come into my calls. They hung up at a feeder at about 100 yards.
While the .30 Carbine can easily kill a turkey at that range, the two Toms were moving too much to take an ethical shot with the older iron sights.
Author holding the long beard he harvested with the M1 Carbine
Luckily for me, a more aggressive Tom of the same size strolled through. His strutting and crotchetiness ended up scaring off the other males and sent them right to me.
The lead bird gave me a clean shot at roughly 50 yards, and the Hornady Critical Defense 110 grain bullet did its job quickly and ethically.
Thoughts on the Carbine
I enjoyed my time with the M1 Carbine reproduction from Auto-Ordnance. From handling older M1 Carbines to other more recent reproductions, AO would take the cake in my opinion for the best reproduction.
The Parkerizing is thick, and it holds up well to the elements with a simple coat of oil. With the rain we experienced, all the coated steel had no issues with rust.
The AO M1 Carbine is easy to carry due to its lightweight.
The wood stock leaves something to be desired though. Being advertised as walnut, I expected a little more resistance to scratching and denting.
This obviously did not affect function, and if you are not treating the carbine as a safe queen this isn’t necessarily something to worry about.
Recoil was mild from the small cartridge, and I would compare it to a slightly harder .300 Blackout.
Considering its short-stroke gas piston design and lack of a muzzle device, recoil would probably be more comparable to a 5.56 NATO. Its 5.4 lb. the weight doesn’t tame recoil like an AR15 either.
(L to R) 5.56 NATO and .300 BLK compared to the .30 Carbine
While the M1 Carbine does not have a last round bolt hold-open feature, you can easily lock the bolt to the rear by depressing a small plunger-style button on the charging handle. This came in handy letting the carbine cool after doing magazine dumps to test feeding.
The magazine release is in the expected spot which is just past the push-button safety at the front of the trigger guard. I have heard reports from GIs mistakenly pushing the magazine release instead of disengaging the safety under stress.
In my opinion, they are far enough from each other to keep it from being an issue, especially for range or hunting use.
Bolt locked to the rear allows easy cooling and inspection of the chamber.
The chamber and feed ramp area were highly polished which is a testament to Auto-Ordnance’s quality and attention to details. The barrel is not chrome-lined though, which would be a perk, but I wouldn’t necessarily worry about service life.
Many barrels in M1 Carbines are not chrome-lined and they are still chugging along.
Magazines For The M1 Carbine
Modern M1 Carbine mags come in a few flavors and are produced by several brands including ProMag and KCI. You can even get them in 30-round capacities and 10-rounders for those of you in ban states!
Auto Ordnance also makes mags for the M1 and they’re solid. They aren’t Glock mags cheap, but a steel magazine that is cheap is…suspicious.
Roughly 500 rounds were put through the M1 Carbine from Auto-Ordnance while I tested and evaluated it. Only once I had a failure to feed, and that was completely my fault when the reciprocating charging handle clipped the side of an obstacle during cycling.
It was complete user error on my part. Using Hornady Critical Defense loads make hunting efficient and clean.
Affordability: 4/5
There are cheaper alternatives if you would like an M1 Carbine and you may be lucky to find a beater in fair shape at a gun show.
But when you look at prices with companies like Inland Mfg. and Fulton Armory, the Auto-Ordnance M1 Carbine is probably the best bang for your buck. Ammunition isn’t the cheapest, but TulAmmo offers cheap steel-cased ammunition for about 24 cents per round – that’s a solid price for plinking ammo!
Customization: 3.5/5
There is still a market for accessories with the M1 Carbine, mostly centered around optic mounts. As stated before, with an appropriate optic accuracy could tighten up a bit compared to the rudimentary iron sights.
A mount for a micro red dot could make this tiny lightweight hell on wheels for a short-range defensive carbine using the Hornady Critical Defense loads.
Ergonomics: 5/5
For a fighting carbine of the 1940s, this rifle is very ergonomic and quick to deploy, which was a shift in weaponry of the time. The detachable magazine inserts cleanly, controls are easy to reach, and the reciprocating charging handle is easy to manipulate.
Pair all that with a soft recoiling, lightweight, accurate rifle, and the M1 Carbine was very much ahead of its time.
Overall: 4.5/5
As stated earlier, the only drawback, in my opinion, was the finish and overall quality of wood for the stock. The receivers look excellent. The iron sights are basic but true to the original GI design.
The weight is phenomenal, and accuracy is impressive for its design type of weapon. I would highly recommend the Auto-Ordnance M1 Carbine if you are in the market for an M1 reproduction.
Parting Shots
The reproduction M1 Carbine from Auto-Ordnance is a winner in my book. Whether used as a hunting rifle, plinker, defensive carbine or truck gun, this light-weight accurate weapon will serve just about anyone well.
Paired with the history and nostalgia of the weapon, any gun collection will do well having it among the ranks.
Have you ever got your hands on a classic M1 Carbine design? What were your thoughts on the aged service weapon? For more WWII goodness that is modernized, take a look at theBest 1911 Pistols!
Want to hit a man-sized target at over a half mile?
There are few people who attempt it, mostly because people assume they need a high-speed rifle, and high rise budget to get their round out there.
Long Distance Shooters
$1,000 is plenty to get you to 1,000-yards. A rifle for precision shooting at long range doesn’t have to cost thousands, and I’ve assembled a list of the best budget long range rifles to help you stretch your dollars.
But first, let’s talk about what you want from a long range rifle.
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Mechanical Accuracy of a Rifle
Reaching out to 1,000-yards isn’t too hard if you know what you’re doing and have a rifle that can do it. While most of the task is on you the shooter, having good equipment makes it a lot easier.
Long Range Target Shooting
The accuracy of a rifle is generally measured in MOA, it is effectively a cone of uncertainty. That cone starts at the muzzle and gets larger as it moves out to the range.
That cone can be measured in MILs or MOA – we’ll use MOA (minute of angle…roughly 1-inch diameter at 100 yards) – and is determined by the mechanical accuracy of the gun, among other factors.
You can’t overcome this.
If you were to strap a gun down and make sure it was 100% motionless between shots and it shot 1 MOA, you’d get no better than 10” in the group at 1,000 yards with no other variables.
The mechanical accuracy of the gun and ammo is almost never the weak point in a system, but is always the limiting factor.
Basic Requirements
Now that that’s out of the way, let’s talk about what you should expect from a long range rifle.
Shooting Long Range
1 MOA Accuracy or Better
Your rifle must shoot 1moa with good ammo and do so reliably. At 1,000 yards, 1moa means you can expect no smaller than a 10” group without accounting for any other variable.
More is always better here, but you do hit a point of diminishing return with cost.
MOA and MIL
Most modern bolt-action rifles made by a respectable vender will shoot sub-MOA and a lot of them even come with the guarantee from the factory.
Free-Float Barrel
For optimal accuracy, you really want a barrel that is free-floated. From barrel whip to barrel heat to making sure your rest doesn’t deflect the barrel, there are a lot of reasons why a free-floated barrel greatly improves your potential accuracy.
When you’re in the store looking at your rifle, take a dollar bill and slip it between the barrel and the stock to check that it is really free-floating.
Rigid Forend
The forend of the rifle’s stock must be rigid enough to support the weight of a gun and preferably hold accessories like a bipod without flexing. You can compromise on this, but you’ll wish you hadn’t.
How Not to Use a Bipod
Predictable Trigger
Your trigger doesn’t have to be the best in the world. It can be heavy, creepy, and gritty, but it MUST be predictable.
A light, crisp trigger with no overtravel or take up is good because it feels simple and predictable when shot.
Properly Shaped Stock
The stock must be shaped properly to allow for proper scope alignment and good support for the forend end and toe of the butt.
You also need a well-shaped pistol grip on the stock so you can get the most control over your trigger.
A short length of pull can work for someone who will always be shooting prone, but you can’t go wrong with a standard length of pull.
Bonus: Aftermarket Support
This isn’t required, but it’s really nice to have and something you might want to keep in mind.
Upgrading and tweaking your rifle will cost a lot less than buying a new one later and will really help fill in any gaps you find once you get a feel for what you want.
If you choose a rifle platform that has a lot of aftermarket support, like a Tikka or Remington 700, sourcing upgrades is a lot easier and often cheaper than if you go with an obscure rifle.
Cartridge Selection
To be clear – this is a much-simplified version. We could go on for pages about what cartridges are good and why you should choose them, but that is more advanced information and this is a beginner’s article.
There are two huge players right now in the short-action long-range cartridge world: .308 Winchester and 6.5 Creedmoor.
If you want to reach past 800-yards we recommend 6.5 Creedmoor.
There is nothing wrong with .308 Win and for a lot of applications and a lot of people it is a great cartridge, but right now – 6.5 Creedmoor is king.
Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor
There are a lot of cartridges that are outstanding for long-range and depending on your exact needs one of those might be better than 6.5 Creedmoor, but generally speaking, 6.5 Creedmoor will get 95% of the jobs done that 99% of you readers need.
Large selection of ammo, reasonable match-grade prices, very high-quality practice/plinking ammo for a cheaper price, outstanding ballistics, huge parts compatibility since it is based on the .308 cartridge. 6.5 Creedmoor ticks all the boxes.
I’ve been toting a T3 Lite Stainless in .308 Winchester for many years. The rifle is my primary backcountry gun for deer, elk, bear and whatever else I think I may need to hunt.
(top to bottom) Tikka T3 Lite .308, Savage Model 99 .300 Savage, Winchester Model 94 Trapper .30-30
It shoots groups well under an inch with factory ammo or handloads. To say I am a bit partial to Tikka rifles is probably an understatement.
The T3 CTR (Compact Tactical Rifle) is just what the range master ordered for someone looking for a platform to learn on and build from with regard to long range shooting.
A huge selling point for the Tikka is that the action itself is glass smooth. It feels like it’s running on ball barrings smooth.
The rifle is available in the following cartridges:
.223 Rem
.243 Win
.260 Rem
.308 Win
6.5 Creedmoor
7mm-08 Win.
Any one of these cartridges is perfect for long range shooting as well as hunting.
The CTR can be had in stainless, or black steel. Right or left-handed. The trigger is available as either a single set trigger or a single-stage trigger and is adjustable by the owner down to just two pounds.
The rifles come with a synthetic stock with a fixed cheek piece and a new interchangeable grip module. The grip can be configured in a traditional style or fitted with a more vertical module that makes shooting from the bench or competition positions more natural and comfortable.
Tikka barrels are made in the Sako factory. So when you buy a Tikka, a Sako barrel is being screwed to the Tikka receiver. Tikka guarantees sub-MOA 3-shot groups from all their rifles.
Sako rifles are amazing, visually and mechanically. But they run a lot higher cost!
In addition, the barrel is threaded 5/8”-24 to easily allow the addition of a muzzle brake or suppressor.
The Tikka bolt shroud is now metal. Early T3 models were plastic. Under the bolt shroud is a cocking indicator. On the left side of the receiver is the bolt release.
The CTR is fed by Tikka’s own steel 10-round magazine. The magazine fits flush with the trigger guard and can be ejected without removing the trigger hand from the grip.
On top of the receiver, the rifle is drilled and tapped with extra screw placements to firmly anchor a Picatinny rail and mount your choice of glass securely.
It’s also the rifle of choice for more than just me!
David’s Tikka T3x CTR in an Oryx Chassis with Vortex Diamondback Tactical Scope
What’s your take on the Tikka?
Readers' Ratings
4.88/5 (272)
Your Rating?
2. Bergara B-14 HMR (Hunting and Match Rifle)
Bergara has long been known for producing extremely accurate barrels.
They have now taken all that barrel building knowledge and coupled it with the some of the best armorers from the US Marine Corps Precision Weapons Section to build extremely accurate rifles for both hunters and competitors.
The HMR is designed to serve as a long range rifle as well as a hunting rifle. But what role it is best for depends on what configuration you get it in.
Currently, the HMR is available in the following cartridges:
.22-250 Rem
6mm Creedmoor
6.5 Creedmoor, .308 Win
7mm Rem Mag
.300 Win Mag
.450 Bushmaster.
The rifle weighs in at 9.6 to 9.9 pounds depending on configuration and barrel length varies from 20 to 26 inches.
All barrels are threaded 5/8”-24 and come with a knurled thread cap. Some cartridges are available in a left hand action.
This is actually something that is fairly hard to find in a lot of rifles, so it’s nice that the HMR has that option!
Bergara left-handed
Coming standard with a mini chassis system is adjustable for length of pull and has an adjustable cheekpiece and the barrels is fully floated.
It also comes with an adjustable trigger set at three pounds. The bolt handle is oversized and knurled for a good grip and easy manipulation.
The top of the receiver is drilled to accommodate any Remington Model 700 optics base and rings and safety is located on the right side of the receiver and the bolt release is on the left side.
Each HMR comes with a 5-round AICS-style magazine.
HMR rifles are guaranteed to produce sub-MOA groups at 100 yards.
The huge strengths of the Bergara, besides being a great rifle, is that they use AICS magazines that are widely available and the actions are built to be Remington 700 footprint, meaning that they can fit most chassis, stocks, rails, and triggers that fit the Remington 700 also.
Savage has been turning out some incredibly accurate rifles in the last few years. Regardless of your past impressions about looks, and a perceived low-cost rifle, the results speak for themselves. A prime example of this is the Savage 10 BA Stealth!
I have a bit of experience with the Savage Axis in .308 Winchester. I actually won the rifle in a raffle a few years ago. It is a package rifle with a very entry level Bushnell 3×9 scope.
Savage Arms Axis XP II Stainless
I mounted the optic and headed to the range with same ammo I feed my Tikka. Low and behold…one half inch and smaller groups right out of the box. Say what you want, Savage rifles shoot.
The 10 BA stealth is based on a Model 110 blueprinted action mated to a very high-quality Savage barrel. The rifle is then mounted up in a Drake monolithic chassis specially modified to Savage’s specs and is machined from a solid billet of aluminum.
The buttstock is a Fab Defense GL-SHOCK shock-absorbing, six-position adjustable assembly with an adjustable cheekpiece.
Savage’s uses the superb Accu-Trigger and is fully adjustable.
Barrels are 20-24 inches depending on the cartridge selected and come with 5/8-24” threads and a thread protector. The barrel is fully free-floated in the Drake chassis. The M-Lok forend allows for easy mounting of rails and bipods.
The top of the receiver is complete with an EGW rail to accommodate the optics of your choice. A 10-round magazine feeds the Stealth.
4. Remington 700 Long Range
This rifle is built to reach out and touch things way out there. Remington 700 has been around for a loong time and has a richly proven track record.
Available in .25-06 Rem, 7mm Remington Mag, .300 Win Mag, .300 Remington Ultra Mag, and .30-06 Springfield, this rifle will satisfy your need for long-range shooting as well as perform exceptionally well in the field.
All chamberings are built around the Model 700 action and a heavy contour 26” barrel.
The stock is a Bell and Carlson M40 Tactical Stock with a full-length aluminum bedding block. There is an additional swivel on the forend to accommodate a bipod and sling.
The USMC still employs a large number of Remington 700 series rifles.
The controls are classic 700 with a two-position safety, a user-adjustable X-Mark Pro trigger and the receiver is drilled and tapped for bases or a Picatinny rail.
One note about Remington – it’s true they’ve had issues for the past ~10+ years after being bought by Freedom Group. However, the issues are mostly present in their lower-end shotguns and rifles. If you get anything other than the most budget tier option then you shouldn’t have a problem.
Chances are you won’t see a lot of CZ rifles at a PRS match. However, if you want a rifle that is capable of shooting extremely small groups and doing it in style, take a look at a 557 Varmint.
The rifle has a distinct walnut stock with a wide, flat forend, a near-vertical pistol grip, and a high cheek piece to place your eye in perfect alignment with your optic.
Nice plus is that the grip area is stippled for a secure hold and the toe of the buttstock is flat so it will recoil perfectly on your rear bag.
Now whether you choose one of these rifles or not, there are a few more things to keep in mind when it comes to purchasing your long range rifle.
Long Range Shooting Competition
Spend Money Where It Will Make a Difference
Spending double to get a rifle that shoots 3/8ths MOA vs a rifle that shoots 1moa isn’t going to help nearly as much as better optics, better ammunition, or more time on the range will.
You can buy equipment to make shooting easier, but you can’t buy anything to make you a better shooter. Spend money where it counts.
A lot of us experience this when we walk by the ammo section of our local sporting goods store.
Don’t Get Bogged Down in Trends
There’s plenty of trends in shooting. Brands, cartridges, calibers, and even the colors of guns fall in and out of style. Just because most guys shoot .308 doesn’t mean .270 win or .30-06 won’t get you to 1,000 just as easily.
Ignore Magnum Mania
You probably don’t need a magnum cartridge. Any benefit you get in a magnum cartridge in terms of external ballistics is negated by cost, recoil, and noise. The only time you would need a magnum is hunting or when you’re going for a 2-mile challenge.
Long Range Hunting
Even shooting at very long ranges, out to 2500-yards, can be done with conventional cartridges as long as your round stays super-sonic.
Run What You’ve ‘Brung
At the end of the day, you can only shoot what you’ve got. If all you can bring to the range is a beat up .30-06, go for it!
As long as you can see the target, you can shoot at it safely. Again, 1,000 yards isn’t as hard as it’s made out to be and it can be done with most people’s deer rifles.
Get Good Practice
If you’re ever torn between getting new guns or getting more practice, buy ammo for more practice. The high precision ammunition needed for long range shooting is expensive in any caliber, including .308.
“Decent” practice ammo – depending on caliber and the brand you like – will normally be around 75-90 cents per round. One of our favorites for 6.5 Creedmoor is Sellier & Bellot 140gr FMJBT.
You can expect to pay over a dollar per round for the really good match grade stuff, and 800 rounds of ammo will make you a better shooter. A new rifle won’t.
Take Good Advice
When you start out, you’ll be approached by all sorts of “experts.” Just because someone can afford a .338 Lapua doesn’t mean they have any idea of what they’re talking about.
Listen to the guy who can show you what to do, not the guy who tells you what to do.
Parting Shots
US Airman Practicing Long Range Marksmanship
Hopefully, the options above give you a place to start if you are looking at getting into long range shooting.
Obviously, you will need a scope that provides the adjustment necessary to engage targets at long range and that will enable you to see the bullet impacts on the target.
By keeping the rifle part of the equation at $1,000 or less, hopefully, more shooters can get in on the PRS matches in their area or at least begin to explore the world of long range shooting.
You don’t need to spend thousands of dollars to access equipment capable of hits at extreme ranges. The most important aspect of the long range game is time on the trigger and learning how to interpret the conditions.
Tell us about the rifles you use for your long range shooting and what is working for you. For some great optics options, take a look at the Best Long Range Scopes!
For $50 a year you get free shipping on ALL of your orders with the vast majority of orders qualifying for free 2-day shipping.
Plus, Brownells waives the $10 FFL fee they normally charge when you buy a firearm from them.
And they give you “special member-only offers & discounts”…maybe.
Is Edge Worth It?
Like with most programs similar to this, the answer is a big maybe.
I’ve had it for about 6-months now and it’s more than paid for itself. I’ve saved at least twice as much as I spent on it, so it works for me.
However, I tend to buy a lot of stuff and I tend to not wait for a free shipping code that Brownells often has floating around.
Several times I’ve been 1 part away from finishing a build or I broke a pin or something and just needed a $5 item sent to me. The free shipping I get with Edge has saved me several times in situations like that.
I don’t buy a lot of firearms from Brownells, but saving the fee helped a few times and added to the program paying for itself.
I haven’t seen any “special members-only” offers though. I get the normal Brownells email, but I haven’t noticed any extra ones.
Just ask yourself this:
Will you buy 5 firearms or more in the next year from Brownells?
Will you be ordering anything that you NEED ASAP?
Do you often find yourself 1 part away from a working rifle?
Do you really want to wait before buying small parts to find a free shipping code?
If your answer to one or all of these questions is “yes” then Brownells Edge is a great program for you!
Economics is a real thing and not everyone has the budget to pick up a reliable, safe, accurate, and CCW pistol.
The Taurus G2C looks to solve that issue and put it to rest for good!
Taurus G2C and chips, yummy!
We’ve had a lot of you readers ask us to review the G2C and here it is in all it’s very budget-friendly glory!
Johnny put it through the wringer for us and has a great video review of it on the Pew Pew Tactical YouTube, take a look and if you like the content don’t forget to subscribe for more!
What Is The Taurus G2C?
Taurus has been around for a while and their reputation is…spotty. But the G2C is designed from the ground up to be a highly affordable compact CCW pistol – and it nails it.
Polymer frame, steel magazines holding 12-rounds of 9mm, easy to use sights, and slightly larger than the Sig P365 the G2C is on paper a great pistol.
On the range is where things matter though…
Basic Stats
Caliber: 9mm or .40 S&W
Capacity: 12+1
Hight: 5″
Width: 1.25″
Length: 6.25″
Weight: 21.15 oz
Material: Polymer frame
Safety: Manual External and internal trigger
Range Report
There are a lot of fancy ammo brands and loadings on the market and if you’re looking to concealed carry you should always use good defensive ammo – but when we’re doing a test on a new gun, it’s Wolf Steel Cased all day long!
We do this for a number of reasons: 1) It’s cheap. 2) This is bottom tier ammo. Period. If a gun can run Wolf Steel, it can run anything.
Shockingly, the G2C ate every single round it was fed and never failed once.
Steel cased, brass cased, it didn’t matter since the G2C was able to run both flawlessly.
Since it’s designed to be a CCW the gun itself is a little small, so the fact that both magazines had pinky rests is a real boon to us that have larger hands.
The sights are simple and work, nothing to write home about but good enough to be minute of man at 7-yards.
3-dot sights are common and easy to use by basically everyone, but something you wouldn’t expect to see on a budget pistol is an adjustable rear sight! A nice plus that we don’t see too often.
Taurus G2C rear sights
A very tacky grip means it won’t slip in your hand and is one of the best aspects of the gun because of just how good they are!
In all…we really have nothing bad to say about the G2C. There is only two things that can be seen as possible negatives but they are both subjective.
Possible Issues
Two things stand out about the G2C that we don’t love – the trigger and external safety.
External safeties in this day are becoming more and rarer but one can be found on the G2C. It also comes with internal safeties and a dongle on the trigger to prevent accidental discharges, so the external safety feels redundant and unnecessary.
The second (possible) issue is the trigger. It’s long, gritty, and mushy. But it isn’t the worst trigger in the world and it works. Plus, being so long and gritty makes it very difficult to accidentally set off – a major plus if you’re a newer CCW holder.
Neither of these holds us back though and in the grand scheme of things, we rate the Tarus G2C very highly!
Five Things To Love About The Taurus G2C
The main points of what to really like about this pistol and why you might want to make it your next firearm pick!
1. Price: Coming in at around the $200 mark, this is a barebones price for a really good pistol. You really can’t find anything in the same price point that compares to the G2C – period.
2. Grip: Aggressively tacty, outstanding in the hand, really leads itself well to accuracy and control of the firearm.
Taurus G2C with its very gripy grip!
3. It Works: Fed all kinds of ammo the G2C just ran and ran and ran. The number one most important thing in a CCW is that it is reliable and Taurus really nailed that part with this.
4. Aesthetics: It looks good, the style is nice, the branding is well done, there isn’t anything weird about it. It’s clean and simple.
Nice
5. Magazines: First of all, you get two of them in the box – awesome. And they are made from steel so they won’t be too prone to breaking. But really the best part is that both have pinky extensions right out of the box!
I’ve seen other reviewers have some minimal trouble from the G2C, but my sample size of one is a friggen’ TANK. It’s unstoppable.
Ergonomics: 4/5
I wish I could grip a little higher on the frame, but the texture is great and the angle is fine. The safety lever is as well-placed as any gun on the market.
Accuracy: 4/5
That crunchy trigger will do you no favors at the range, but overall the accuracy is fine. You can put shots on a torso target no sweat.
Customization: 2/5
Add whatever light you want to the rail, but the options get thin after that.
Rail for a light is simple and functional
Value: 5/5
A reliable concealed carry pistol under $250? Name me a better value.
Plenty of guys will say you should just save more money and buy a better brand firearm.
Yeah, maybe.
Sexy profile pic of the Taurus G2C
But for folks on a budget, the option to get a reliable gun with 12+1 capacity at this price is simply too good to ignore. The G2C has earned its place in the market.
Do you choose a budget-friendly CCW for your first one or did you save until you could get something else? For more awesome CCW options take a look at the Best Concealed Carry Gunsand Best CCW Holsters.
And if you read all the way through and haven’t checked out the video review…
